Evening dress, ca. 1913, English or French; Silk chine, brocaded silk voile, bobbin lace

This unlabelled confection is an extreme example of the pre-World War I evening clothing which was typified by complex assemblages of luxurious materials and trimmings. The layered construction is complex. The skirt has three parts - an open-fronted top with corners weighted by elaborate tassels (one is a modern replacement); a middle layer pleated from the waist and draped to the centre back and a final layer that forms the pointed train. The boned bodice is also notable for multiple layers: over the diamante-trimmed, lace covered foundation, brocaded silk voile forms side panels and open-work sleeves caught with large diamante and pearl motifs which echo the tassels. The focal point (holding the pastel-coloured concoction together) is the wide, softly-pleated satin sash which back fastens with an enormous floppy bow.

Given anonymously

Before the outbreak of World War I in 1914, which all but smothered the market for luxury goods, couturiers created evening clothes that were complex assemblages of luxurious materials and trimmings. They were often, as with this evening dress, constructed with multiple layers of diaphonous fabrics trimmed with metallic threads, pearls and diamantés to catch the light.

T.33-1947