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Gown

Gown

  • Place of origin:

    England, Great Britain (possibly, made)
    France (possibly, made)

  • Date:

    1775-1780 (made)
    1880-1900 (altered)

  • Artist/Maker:

    unknown (production)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Chinese painted silk and silk taffeta, lined with linen, hand-sewn

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mrs George Shaw

  • Museum number:

    T.30-1910

  • Gallery location:

    In store

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In the 1770s a new style of wearing gowns was introduced, called a polonaise. Using buttons and loops, the skirt of the gown was draped up to create a swathed effect at the back. This gown is a painted silk, made in China specifically for export to Europe. It was probably made in the 1760s. It was remade into a polonaise in the 1770s, and then altered considerably in the late 19th century for fancy dress. The green silk trim and rosettes seen here are 19th century additions.

Physical description

A woman's open gown in the polonaise style is made of Chinese silk hand-painted in a floral pattern of yellow, pinks, mauve and greens including rosses, pinks, cornflowers and grapes in a European style. The closed bodice has set-in elbow-length sleeves. It is trimmed with a double-gathered ruching of green silk around the neck and lower edge of sleeve. The bodice is lined with linen. Three lines of green silk braid follow the centre back of the bodice from neck to waist. The open skirt, made of 4 panels of silk, has curved front edges and is lined with green taffeta at the back hem. Two thread loops at the inside of the back waist attach to two buttons on the outside at the waist to create the polonaise effect.

The gown has been remade, probably from a sack back. It has been altered for fancy dress in the late 19th century when the green silk ribbon rosettes, bows and stomacher of pink silk, bobbin lace and green ribbon was added.

Place of Origin

England, Great Britain (possibly, made)
France (possibly, made)

Date

1775-1780 (made)
1880-1900 (altered)

Artist/maker

unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques

Chinese painted silk and silk taffeta, lined with linen, hand-sewn

Dimensions

Circumference: 89 cm at chest, Circumference: 66 cm at waist, Length: 166 cm approx.

Historical context note

The polonaise style of looping up the skirt of the gown originated in France and became popular in England between 1777 and 1780. In the fashion plate series, Galerie des Modes, polonaises predominate from 1776, remaining popular until 1780. This example is similar to that in the Moreau le Jeune engraving, 'Le Promenade a Marly' 1778. Polonaises were worn only as informal afternoon dress.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Rothstein, Natalie. Four Hundred Years of Fashion. London: The Victoria and Albert Museum, reprinted 1992, p.28, 124-5, ill. ISBN 1852771160

Materials

Silk; Linen

Techniques

Painting; Hand sewing

Subjects depicted

Roses; Carnation

Categories

Clothing; Formal wear

Production Type

Unique

Collection code

T&D

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Qr_O15539
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