Necklace thumbnail 1
Not on display

Necklace

ca. 1990 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Traditionally colour is introduced to jewellery through enamels or gemstones. In the late 20th century, however, the search for a 'new language' in jewellery led to new techniques and with them, other ways of exploring colour.

Silver could be oxidised to appear black, or chemically treated to be white. Modern colours could be achieved through traditional enamels applied in a painterly fashion, by using stained wood or oriental lacquers. Metals with varying patinas could be mixed to form contrasting visual effects. Resins and synthetics also offer visual and expressive power.

Joan Parcher has been fascinated by jewellery from childhood when she discovered the possibilities of wire. Her designs often pre-date the piece – her ideas led by materials and their characteristics. Her love of enamels leads her to seek samples from England, Japan and even vintage examples from America. Parcher’s designs are based on simple geometric shapes, which in their application form complex designs.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Oxidised silver chain with multi-coloured enamel discs
Brief description
Necklace of multi-coloured enamelled discs designed and made by Joan Parcher, Rhode Island, USA, about 1990.
Dimensions
  • Height: 1.5cm
  • Unclasped length: 55cm
  • Unclasped diameter: 20.5cm
Credit line
Given by the American Friends of the V&A through the generosity of Patricia Goldstein
Summary
Traditionally colour is introduced to jewellery through enamels or gemstones. In the late 20th century, however, the search for a 'new language' in jewellery led to new techniques and with them, other ways of exploring colour.

Silver could be oxidised to appear black, or chemically treated to be white. Modern colours could be achieved through traditional enamels applied in a painterly fashion, by using stained wood or oriental lacquers. Metals with varying patinas could be mixed to form contrasting visual effects. Resins and synthetics also offer visual and expressive power.

Joan Parcher has been fascinated by jewellery from childhood when she discovered the possibilities of wire. Her designs often pre-date the piece – her ideas led by materials and their characteristics. Her love of enamels leads her to seek samples from England, Japan and even vintage examples from America. Parcher’s designs are based on simple geometric shapes, which in their application form complex designs.
Other numbers
  • LOAN:AMERICANFRIENDS.194-2003 - Previous loan number
  • 150 - Goldstein Collection number
Collection
Accession number
M.149-2007

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Record createdMay 15, 2008
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