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Walking costume

Walking costume

  • Place of origin:

    London (made)

  • Date:

    c. 1908 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    John Redfern & Sons (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Woollen serge, lined with silk satin, trimmed with braid

  • Museum number:

    CIRC.646&A-1964

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

This navy serge two-piece ensemble is called a 'costume'. Coat-and-skirt ensembles such as this would not have been considered suits until after the First World War. During the early 1910s, fashionable women wore slim skirts and neatly fitted blouses, often under quite loosely fitted coats and jackets. This outfit, which is trimmed with silk braid, would have been worn as a smart day suit for town wear.

This outfit was made by one of the leading British couturiers of his day, John Redfern. In the 1870s he began designing beautifully constructed, practical tailored garments to meet the requirements of the increasingly active woman. In addition to riding, women had begun to participate in other sports including tennis, yachting and archery. Redfern's clothes for these pursuits were adopted as everyday wear by royalty, actresses and fashionable women. In 1881 Redfern opened establishments in London and Paris. A few years later in 1884, a Redfern branch opened in New York, with one in Rhode Island the following year. The Redfern fashion houses closed in 1932, briefly reopened in 1936, and closed again in 1940.

The outfit was worn by Miss Heather Firbank (1888-1954). She was a beautiful, wealthy young woman who bought her expensive, high-style clothing from leading London couturiers, such as Lucile, Redfern and Mascotte. She favoured purple and heather tones, which complemented her name. The Museum holds a wide range of clothing and accessories from Heather's wardrobe between 1905 to 1921.

Physical description

Navy woollen serge suit consisting of a coat and skirt. Lapel-less coat lined with royal purple silk satin with concealed fastenings of hooks and eyes. With black braid frogging around the collar and cuffs. Skirt made with rectangular panels on the front and back with bands of frogging down the sides of the panels.

Place of Origin

London (made)

Date

c. 1908 (made)

Artist/maker

John Redfern & Sons (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Woollen serge, lined with silk satin, trimmed with braid

Descriptive line

Woollen serge suit consisting of a coat and skirt, made by John Redfern & Sons, London, c. 1908

Materials

Serge; Silk satin; Braid

Techniques

Tailoring

Categories

Fashion; Day wear; Women's clothes; Textiles; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Haute couture

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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