Earring thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Earring

ca. 1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The granulated design on these earings was produced using particles of solder to secure the very small grains of gold. In the 19th century goldsmiths admired the skills of their ancient predecessors. They were especially fascinated to know how the Etruscan goldsmiths created patterns composed of wires and grains applied without any sign of solder. In 1884 the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann described granulation (the application of small, sometimes minute, gold grains) as an ‘art which now baffles the comprehension of the most skilful of the skilful’.

In antiquity, an organic glue and a substance containing copper was spread on the gold and the jewellery heated. At 850 degrees C the carbon from the burnt glue reacts with the substance containing copper to release pure copper. This copper lowers the melting point of the gold. It alloys with, and diffuses into, the gold thus bonding the sheet, wires and granules in place.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Earring
  • Earring
Materials and techniques
Gold, with granulation and filigree
Brief description
Pair of gold earrings with granulation, United States, about 1870.
Dimensions
  • Drops diameter: 16mm
  • Height: 27mm
Style
Credit line
Given by the American Friends of the V&A through the generosity of Patricia V. Goldstein
Summary
The granulated design on these earings was produced using particles of solder to secure the very small grains of gold. In the 19th century goldsmiths admired the skills of their ancient predecessors. They were especially fascinated to know how the Etruscan goldsmiths created patterns composed of wires and grains applied without any sign of solder. In 1884 the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann described granulation (the application of small, sometimes minute, gold grains) as an ‘art which now baffles the comprehension of the most skilful of the skilful’.

In antiquity, an organic glue and a substance containing copper was spread on the gold and the jewellery heated. At 850 degrees C the carbon from the burnt glue reacts with the substance containing copper to release pure copper. This copper lowers the melting point of the gold. It alloys with, and diffuses into, the gold thus bonding the sheet, wires and granules in place.
Other number
72 - Goldstein Collection number
Collection
Accession number
M.115:1, 2-2007

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdApril 29, 2008
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest