Brooch thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Brooch

1920-1930 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This style of brooch, made up of two separate decorative elements joined by a pin, was very fashionable in the mid 1920s. At the time Cartier referred to them as cliquet pins on account of the click or snap fastening which held the lower element in place over the sharp point of the pin, but they are also variously referred to as jabot pins (after a cravat or jabot) or sûreté pins.

In the 1920s they were worn on the lapel or at the front of a cloche hat. Most of those made in New York were of the length of this example and were made to be worn on the hat.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Platinum, lapis lazuli, diamonds and black onyx
Brief description
Brooch of platinum, lapis lazuli, diamonds and onyx, made by Cartier, New York, USA, 1920-1930.
Physical description
Brooch of platinum, lapis lazuli, diamonds and black onyx, the resembling head a stylised feather the lower section acting as a safety clip for the end of the pin.
Dimensions
  • Height: 4.8cm
  • Width: 2.5cm
  • Depth: 0.9cm
Style
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'CARTIER' (engraved on lower clip)
  • 199 or 190 (possibly preceded by a mark like an inverted v) (on lower clip)
Credit line
Given by the American Friends of the V&A through the generosity of Patricia V. Goldstein
Summary
This style of brooch, made up of two separate decorative elements joined by a pin, was very fashionable in the mid 1920s. At the time Cartier referred to them as cliquet pins on account of the click or snap fastening which held the lower element in place over the sharp point of the pin, but they are also variously referred to as jabot pins (after a cravat or jabot) or sûreté pins.

In the 1920s they were worn on the lapel or at the front of a cloche hat. Most of those made in New York were of the length of this example and were made to be worn on the hat.
Other numbers
  • LOAN:AMERICANFRIENDS.276-2003 - Previous loan number
  • 230B - Goldstein Collection number
Collection
Accession number
M.188-2007

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Record createdApril 24, 2008
Record URL
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