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Brooch

  • Place of origin:

    New York (made)

  • Date:

    1920-1930 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Cartier (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Platinum, lapis lazuli, diamonds and black onyx

  • Credit Line:

    Given by the American Friends of the V&A through the generosity of Patricia V. Goldstein

  • Museum number:

    M.188-2007

  • Gallery location:

    Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery, case 31, shelf A, box 5

This style of brooch, made up of two separate decorative elements joined by a pin, was very fashionable in the mid 1920s. At the time Cartier referred to them as cliquet pins on account of the click or snap fastening which held the lower element in place over the sharp point of the pin, but they are also variously referred to as jabot pins (after a cravat or jabot) or sûreté pins.

In the 1920s they were worn on the lapel or at the front of a cloche hat. Most of those made in New York were of the length of this example and were made to be worn on the hat.

Physical description

Brooch of platinum, lapis lazuli, diamonds and black onyx, the resembling head a stylised feather the lower section acting as a safety clip for the end of the pin.

Place of Origin

New York (made)

Date

1920-1930 (made)

Artist/maker

Cartier (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Platinum, lapis lazuli, diamonds and black onyx

Marks and inscriptions

'CARTIER'
engraved on lower clip

199 or 190 (possibly preceded by a mark like an inverted v)
on lower clip

Dimensions

Height: 4.8 cm, Width: 2.5 cm, Depth: 0.9 cm

Descriptive line

Brooch of platinum, lapis lazuli, diamonds and onyx, made by Cartier, New York, USA, 1920-1930.

Materials

Platinum; Lapis lazuli; Diamond; Onyx

Techniques

Carving; Stone setting; Stone cutting

Categories

Jewellery; Metalwork; Accessories

Collection

Metalwork Collection

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