Fashionable embroideries of the late 18th century were usually worked to create a very smooth, flat appearance, alleviated in this instance by the use of applied net and by small amounts of chenille thread (in the W-shapes which form part of the ground pattern). French embroidered waistcoats were very popular in England and the Exchequer Records in the Public Records Office refer to many instances of French waistcoat shapes being smuggled across the Channel to avoid paying duty. Embroiderers in Britain also worked waistcoat shapes in similar designs.

Waistcoats were often embroidered to shape, to be purchased and then sewn together by a tailor; the areas of undecorated silk allowed the waistcoat to be cut and fitted to whatever size was required. In this pair of shapes, the pocket flap was embroidered in the upper right hand corner and was then cut out, hemmed and stitched into place.