Not currently on display at the V&A

Kamkhwab

c.1855 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A complete length of cloth in woven silk and gold thread, of the type known as 'kincob'. Varanasi, mid 19th century. This cloth was acquired by the East India Company Museum in 1855 probably came from the Paris International Exhibition of that year. The label gives the name of the cloth in contemorary spelling and and carries the name of the craftsman: KAMKHAB JUNGALAH MINAKAR by BUDHU. 'Jungalah minakar' (also written in Persian script in ink on the same label) means a creeper or 'jungle' design worked in multi-coloured and finely detailed weaving which is likened to enamelling on metal (minakar).


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven silk and gold thread brocade
Brief description
Length of kamkhwab (kincob) silk brocaded with coloured silks and gold-wrapped thread, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, c.1855
Physical description
A length of woven silk with gold-wrapped thread. The all-over design is a repeating series of floral meanders, with coloured flower-heads against a gold ground. At one end there is a square green silk applied patch, embroidered with gold-wrapped thread with the words 'Kamkhab Jungalah Minakar by Budhu' in block capitals, and with ink inscriptions reading 'amal-i Budhu' [the work of Budhu] and 'jangala minakar' [tree (design) enamel work].
Dimensions
  • Length: 330cm
  • Width: 78cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • KAMKHAB JUNGALAH MINAKAR BY BUDHU
    Translation
    Brocade cloth with enamel-work (ie finely detailed multi-colured design) in tree ('jungle') design, by Budhu.
  • 'amal-i Budhu
    Translation
    The work of Budhu
  • jangala minakar (The first inscription is embroidered in block capitals in the western alphabet. The other two are written in ink on the same patch of cloth and are in Persian/Urdu script.)
    Translation
    Jungle or tree design enamel work
Gallery label
LENGTH OF BROCADE: Silk and gold tread brocade (KINKOB) cloth with extra weft design in coloured silks.(1990)
Object history
Transferred from the India Museum in 1879. 1880 Register Entry: [ROOM 8. Case 60.] '0827. "KINCOB." Piece of, red ground, gold and coloured design with inscription; Benares. 3,245'. India Museum Slip book entry 3245: 'Kincob Piece / Kincob / Benares / 55 / Scarlet Silk & Gold flowers'. Swatches from the original textile appear in John Forbes Watson's Second Series of The Textile Manufactures of India (1874) vol.401-458, no.409.
Summary
A complete length of cloth in woven silk and gold thread, of the type known as 'kincob'. Varanasi, mid 19th century. This cloth was acquired by the East India Company Museum in 1855 probably came from the Paris International Exhibition of that year. The label gives the name of the cloth in contemorary spelling and and carries the name of the craftsman: KAMKHAB JUNGALAH MINAKAR by BUDHU. 'Jungalah minakar' (also written in Persian script in ink on the same label) means a creeper or 'jungle' design worked in multi-coloured and finely detailed weaving which is likened to enamelling on metal (minakar).
Bibliographic reference
Watson, J. Forbes, et al. Collection of Specimens and Illustrations of the Textile Manufactures of India. Second Series, India Museum, 1874. 'KINCOB. / Length, 5 Yds. 8 Ins.; Width, 30 Ins.; Weight, 4 lb. 5 dr. Price per Yard £6. / BENARES. / NO.409, SECOND SERIES. / "3245".
Other number
3245 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
0827(IS)

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Record createdMarch 20, 2008
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