Àdìrẹ cloth thumbnail 1
Àdìrẹ cloth thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Àdìrẹ cloth

Textile
1960s (made), 1960-1969 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Àdìrẹ is an indigo-dyed cloth traditionally produced by Yoruba women in south-western Nigeria. A range of resist-dye techniques are used to create àdìrẹ patterns, often incorporating more than one technique in a single cloth. The ground-cloth cotton is folded, stitched, tied or otherwise worked-upon in preparation for dyeing – these areas resist the dye, creating the cloth's distinctive blue and white patterns. The precise origins of àdìrẹ are unknown, though indigo-dyeing has been seen across West Africa for centuries. Àdìrẹ has an enduring presence in the region, becoming a popular, everyday cloth, with many women dyeing àdìrẹ of their own design within the home. Once dyed, àdìrẹ cloth can be wrapped or stitched to create garments, such as a woman's ìró (wrapped skirt). From the 20th century onwards, factory-woven cloth began to be used – this cloth accepted the dye more easily, creating a finer clarity of design. Whilst factories are now able to mass-produce imitation àdìrẹ, the popularity of the traditional hand-worked cloth remains, made by local artisans in historic dyeing centres such as Ibadan.

Àdìrẹ is subcategorised according to the method of resist-dyeing used, each of which carries its own history and produces its own recognisable effect. This cloth is an example of àdìrẹ ẹlékọ, which is often seen as the most recently developed àdìrẹ technique, using a cassava starch paste as the resist. This is applied with a brush or feather using either a meticulously cut metal stencil, or, painted freehand onto the cloth – the latter providing the opportunity for more stylised and complex designs. In this instance, the starch paste has been applied through a metal stencil; within the circular and diamond-shaped motifs, the starch was applied thickly and then scraped away with a comb to create the wave pattern of concentric circles. Although adire cloths were usually made by women, the mental stencils were generally produced by men.

As with many example of àdìrẹ, it is composed of two panels stitched together along the long edges creating one whole piece. This would be worn by women wrapped around the waist with the seam running horizontally, forming an ìró (wrapped skirt). Àdìrẹ was not a prestigious form of cloth but it was extremely popular during the early 1960s when this example was bought for the museum in the city of Ibadan in south-western Nigeria.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Titles
  • Àdìrẹ cloth
  • Àdìrẹ cloth
Materials and techniques
Indigo-dyed and starch resisted cotton
Brief description
Àdìrẹ cloth, indigo starch resist-dyed cotton, Nigeria, 1960-1964.
Physical description
Àdìrẹ eleko cotton cloth, indigo-dyed and starch resisted. The starch is applied with a stencil, parts are scraped away with a comb, and then it is dyed. Formed of two lengths of cloth stitched together.
Dimensions
  • Width: 161cm
  • Length: 175cm
Object history
Label on textile: '"Adire eleko" (indigo-dyed, starch resisted cloth). The starch resist is applied by stencil to the cotton cloth, parts combed away, then dyed. West African (Western Nigeria); Contemporary / Lent by the Victoria and Albert Museum.'

One of eight àdìrẹ cloths purchased for the museum by Jane Barbour in the 1960s. All eight cloths were purchased in Ibadan, where Barbour's husband worked at the university.
Production
Yoruba.
Although àdìrẹ cloth are usually produced by women, stencilled cloths like this one are generally made by men.
Summary
Àdìrẹ is an indigo-dyed cloth traditionally produced by Yoruba women in south-western Nigeria. A range of resist-dye techniques are used to create àdìrẹ patterns, often incorporating more than one technique in a single cloth. The ground-cloth cotton is folded, stitched, tied or otherwise worked-upon in preparation for dyeing – these areas resist the dye, creating the cloth's distinctive blue and white patterns. The precise origins of àdìrẹ are unknown, though indigo-dyeing has been seen across West Africa for centuries. Àdìrẹ has an enduring presence in the region, becoming a popular, everyday cloth, with many women dyeing àdìrẹ of their own design within the home. Once dyed, àdìrẹ cloth can be wrapped or stitched to create garments, such as a woman's ìró (wrapped skirt). From the 20th century onwards, factory-woven cloth began to be used – this cloth accepted the dye more easily, creating a finer clarity of design. Whilst factories are now able to mass-produce imitation àdìrẹ, the popularity of the traditional hand-worked cloth remains, made by local artisans in historic dyeing centres such as Ibadan.

Àdìrẹ is subcategorised according to the method of resist-dyeing used, each of which carries its own history and produces its own recognisable effect. This cloth is an example of àdìrẹ ẹlékọ, which is often seen as the most recently developed àdìrẹ technique, using a cassava starch paste as the resist. This is applied with a brush or feather using either a meticulously cut metal stencil, or, painted freehand onto the cloth – the latter providing the opportunity for more stylised and complex designs. In this instance, the starch paste has been applied through a metal stencil; within the circular and diamond-shaped motifs, the starch was applied thickly and then scraped away with a comb to create the wave pattern of concentric circles. Although adire cloths were usually made by women, the mental stencils were generally produced by men.

As with many example of àdìrẹ, it is composed of two panels stitched together along the long edges creating one whole piece. This would be worn by women wrapped around the waist with the seam running horizontally, forming an ìró (wrapped skirt). Àdìrẹ was not a prestigious form of cloth but it was extremely popular during the early 1960s when this example was bought for the museum in the city of Ibadan in south-western Nigeria.
Associated objects
Collection
Accession number
CIRC.589-1965

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Record createdMarch 12, 2008
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