Not currently on display at the V&A

Gown

ca. 1913 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This gown belonged to the famous Italian actor Eleonora Duse (1858-1924), noted for her association with the poet and playwright Gabriele d'Annunzio. Duse was a great friend of the designer Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) and was known for the fact that she used very little make-up in an age where acting demanded dramatic costumes and disguise. Duse was the first woman to appear on the cover of Time magazine in July 1923.

The dress was purchased from Vitaldi Babani, a designer-importer who launched his business in 1895. His shop 'Babani' was situated at 98 Boulevard Haussman. Along with the designer Paul Poiret, Babani was licensed to sell Fortuny designs in Paris. In addition to retailing Fortuny designs, Babani sold Liberty textiles and produced fabrics and garments of his own design that bore the influence of these designers.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk velvet, block printed with gold pigment, trimmed with glass beads
Brief description
Gown of block printed silk velvet, designed by Babani, Paris, ca. 1913
Physical description
Gown of black silk velvet, loosely T-shaped, with a gold pattern block printed around the neckline and sleeves. It also has red and white striped Venetian glass beads around the neckline.
Production typeHaute couture
Credit line
Given by Fr. Sebastian Bullough
Object history
There is also an identically printed and styled gown in collection, T.735-1972, in lightweight silk crepe
Summary
This gown belonged to the famous Italian actor Eleonora Duse (1858-1924), noted for her association with the poet and playwright Gabriele d'Annunzio. Duse was a great friend of the designer Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) and was known for the fact that she used very little make-up in an age where acting demanded dramatic costumes and disguise. Duse was the first woman to appear on the cover of Time magazine in July 1923.

The dress was purchased from Vitaldi Babani, a designer-importer who launched his business in 1895. His shop 'Babani' was situated at 98 Boulevard Haussman. Along with the designer Paul Poiret, Babani was licensed to sell Fortuny designs in Paris. In addition to retailing Fortuny designs, Babani sold Liberty textiles and produced fabrics and garments of his own design that bore the influence of these designers.
Associated object
T.735-1972 (Design)
Collection
Accession number
T.737-1972

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Record createdMarch 11, 2008
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