Breast Chain thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Breast Chain

ca. 1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Balkan women used jewellery lavishly with their traditional costume. They fastened their clothes with decorative hooks, usually linked to each other by lengths of chain. These were worn across the front of the dress, across the back of the head linking the earrings to the head cloth, and down the front of the skirt.

This piece was worn on the breast. The central dome has two sharp hooks on the back which linked the front edges of a long sleeveless jacket. The two hooks at the ends of the chains were hooked to the head scarf, or into the costume somewhere on the shoulders, and the chains were left to hang loosely and artistically over the front of the body. It may have been worn alone, but more likely its owner added more clasps and chains down the front of her jacket, with a larger matching clasp at the waist. It was bought for £1 18s at the International Exhibition, London, 1872.

The niello work on this clasp is typical of Epirus. In the 19th century Epirus was still part of Albania, and this kind of niello work is always described as Albanian in 19th-century sources.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver with niello decoration
Brief description
Silver breast chain with three hooks decorated with niello, Epirus (Greece), c. 1850.
Physical description
Convex cast disc with floral decoration with niello highlights, and two sharp horizontal hooks on the back. Seven lengths of figure-of-eight chain hang from the lower edge. The three short central chains end in pendent discs with domed rosettes. The pairs at each side are longer, and link the central disc to two lozenge-shaped plaques, decorated with niello, with hooks on the back. The lower chain of each pair has nine domed disc pendants.
Dimensions
  • Length: 71.4cm
  • Width: 13.4cm
  • Depth: 2.1cm
Summary
Balkan women used jewellery lavishly with their traditional costume. They fastened their clothes with decorative hooks, usually linked to each other by lengths of chain. These were worn across the front of the dress, across the back of the head linking the earrings to the head cloth, and down the front of the skirt.

This piece was worn on the breast. The central dome has two sharp hooks on the back which linked the front edges of a long sleeveless jacket. The two hooks at the ends of the chains were hooked to the head scarf, or into the costume somewhere on the shoulders, and the chains were left to hang loosely and artistically over the front of the body. It may have been worn alone, but more likely its owner added more clasps and chains down the front of her jacket, with a larger matching clasp at the waist. It was bought for £1 18s at the International Exhibition, London, 1872.

The niello work on this clasp is typical of Epirus. In the 19th century Epirus was still part of Albania, and this kind of niello work is always described as Albanian in 19th-century sources.
Collection
Accession number
1438-1873

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Record createdMarch 7, 2008
Record URL
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