Chain thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Chain

1800-1860 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

In the 17th century, Russian men and women of all ranks wore long chains of heavy silver filigree. By the 19th century these chains had fallen out of fashion. Only priests, and people who wore traditional dress, continued to use them. It is impossible to date these chains accurately, as they remained unchanged for centuries, and are rarely marked.

Most were made of plain silver, but silversmiths in the town of Veliky Ustyug, in the north of European Russia, made fine enamelled chains in the 17th century. These were extensively copied in the 19th century, with the revival of Russian nationalism.

Some chains were purely decorative, but most carried religious pendants. This chain has an octagonal pendant, which would originally have contained an icon or cross. It hangs from a square bead with an image of Christ's head on the front; the impression said to have been left on the veil of Veronica.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Enamelled silver
Brief description
Long enamelled silver chain with matching octagonal pendant, Russia, 19th century.
Physical description
Chain of double-sided quatrefoil links, enamelled in white, black, green and yellow, with matching tapered terminals. A pendant octagonal frame, lacking back and contents, and decorated with stylised tulips in white, black, yellow, opaque turquoise, and clear dark green, enamel hanging from a small octagonal bead with the face of Christ (the vernicle) on the front.
Dimensions
  • Length: 83.5cm
  • Width: 5.1cm
  • Depth: 0.5cm
Subjects depicted
Summary
In the 17th century, Russian men and women of all ranks wore long chains of heavy silver filigree. By the 19th century these chains had fallen out of fashion. Only priests, and people who wore traditional dress, continued to use them. It is impossible to date these chains accurately, as they remained unchanged for centuries, and are rarely marked.

Most were made of plain silver, but silversmiths in the town of Veliky Ustyug, in the north of European Russia, made fine enamelled chains in the 17th century. These were extensively copied in the 19th century, with the revival of Russian nationalism.

Some chains were purely decorative, but most carried religious pendants. This chain has an octagonal pendant, which would originally have contained an icon or cross. It hangs from a square bead with an image of Christ's head on the front; the impression said to have been left on the veil of Veronica.
Collection
Accession number
132-1866

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Record createdMarch 7, 2008
Record URL
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