Black bodice and skirt, worn by Teresa Kubiak or Janet Jacques as Giunone in Cavalli's opera La Calisto at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1974. Designed by John Bury (1925-2000)

S.213:1-2018, Bodice

Stiff black bodice with a wide, round, neckline finished with a piped seam. The neckline is edged with a line of delicate hanging beads which falls softly over the bodice front and extends into an inverted triangle at the centre front of the bust.

The bodice extends into a pointed ‘V’ at the centre front and runs in a straight line across the rear. It is formed from a rough black silk and the interior is faced with cream cotton. It is stiffened with multiple channels of vertical boning. A series of 7 elastic loops, each with a narrow vertical slit at the centre are spaced around the interior waist of the bodice.

The bodice has long sleeves which flare out at the cuff. The sleeves are made from a lightweight black chiffon and are lined with pale peach machine net. They are gathered into three softly pleated ‘puffs’, each puff gathered into a band of black braid.

The bodice fastens at the centre back with two lengths of lacing, each running through 8 pairs of metal eyelets. Two large press studs and two metal bars are present at the proper left and proper right shoulder line.


S.213:2-2018, Skirt

Floor length black layered skirt extending into a slight train at the rear. It has a rough figured black silk ground. Over this sit two asymmetrical curved panels of the same figured black fabric. These panels float softly over the skirt but are held in position with stitches either side of the centre front skirt. They are trimmed with a band of hanging cotton tassels, the top edge of which is bordered with a horizontal line of black plastic beads.

The top part and upper layer of the skirt is formed from a heavy black faux fur fabric. This fabric is flecked with strands of silver and edged with lengths of hanging cotton tassels (of the same kind as used to edge the central skirt layer).

This top skirt rests in two short curved panels at the centre front. It is gathered together into soft wide folds at the rear, the heavy bulk of the fabric creating a bustle style silhouette.

The skirt fastens at the centre back waist with a large metal hook and eye and two pairs of press studs. It is not lined, but the waist is faced with cream cotton. It has a black Petersham ribbon style waistband, around which 9 buttons are evenly spaced.

Given by Glyndebourne Productions Ltd

Black bodice and skirt, worn by Teresa Kubiak or Janet Jacques as Giunone in Cavalli's opera La Calisto at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1974. Designed by John Bury (1925-2000).

S.213:1 & 2-2018