Costume consisting of bodice, skirt and petticoat, worn by Hughes Cuénod (1902-2010) as Linfea in Cavalli's opera La Calisto at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1974. Designed by John Bury (1925-2000)

S.212:1-2018, Bodice

The bodice was designed for a male wearer and the size and construction reflect this fact. It is stiffened with 10 channels of boning and extends into a point at the centre front waist. 5 elastic loops have been evenly spaced around the interior waist of the bodice, each with a button hole at the centre. The bodice fastens at the rear with a vertical row of 16 metal hooks and eyes.

The bodice has an off-white cotton ground with curved panels of pale flesh coloured fabric used at the front and rear shoulder line. These is a floating panel at the proper left rear of the bodice. This masks the centre back fastening and is secured with a button at the proper right shoulder and with a small metal hook and eye at the shoulder line.

It has a ‘V’ shaped neckline and three-quarter length sleeves which flare out at the cuff. Bands of metallic silver braid have been used to edge the neckline and to decorate the three tiers of softly pleated ‘puffs’ into which the sleeves have been gathered. A floating length of the same silver braid runs diagonally from the proper right shoulder to the proper left waist of the bodice.

Small semi-circular padded discs, outlined with silver braid and designed to resemble breasts, have been added to the front of the bodice. These discs are filled with small polystyrene [?] beads and enclosed within pale flesh pink fabric (which sits underneath the same translucent white closely woven fabric used for the remainder of the bodice).


S.212:2-2018, Skirt

Floor length skirt extending into a slight train at the rear. The skirt has an accordion pleated pale grey/blue tarlatan[?] underskirt and a cream polyester inner skirt. The upper layer of the skirt is formed from an asymmetrical mottled grey faux fur panels faced with a pale peach coloured polyester.

The faux fur upper skirt is shorter at the front reaching to about the level of the thigh. It has a curved hem, and though raised at the front, is longer at the rear, extending down towards the hem. The shorter panel at the front exposes the plated underskirt which is in two parts, a mid-length upper part and floor length underskirt. The rear of the skirt is entirely cover the fur faux panel, and a length of heavy metal silver braid and cord hangs down from the proper left rear hip.

The skirt has a cream Petersham style waistband. It fastens at the centre back with 5 metal hooks and eyes. 10 pearlescent buttons are positioned around this waistband. There is a 33cm opening at the centre back.


S.212:3-2018, Petticoat

Floor length pleated machine net cream petticoat. The petticoat has a stiff synthetic net overskirt and cream cotton underskirt. It is gathered into a wide cream Petersham waistband which fastens at the centre front with a pair of small metal hooks and eyes. The is a vertical opening at the centre back waist, some 37cms in length.

A semi-circular, cotton covered, pad is suspended from four short cotton tapes at the interior waist of the petticoat. This padding creates fullness and bulk at the hips and rear.

Given by Glyndebourne Productions Ltd

Costume worn by Hughes Cuénod (1902-2010) as Linfea in Cavalli's opera La Calisto at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1974. Designed by John Bury (1925-2000).

S.212:1 to 3-2018