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Opera Costume

Opera Costume
1990s (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Pale eau de nil and cream ensemble consisting of jacket, shirt, blouse and hat. Worn by Amanda Roocroft as Fiordiligi in Mozart's opera Cosi Fan Tutte at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1990s. Designed by Maria Björnson (1949-2002).


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 4 parts.
(Some alternative part names are also shown below)
  • Opera Costume
  • Jacket
  • Opera Costume
  • Skirt
  • Opera Costume
  • Blouse
  • Opera Costume
  • Hat
TitleOpera Costume (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Silk; machine lace; metal; polyester; braid
Brief description
Pale eau de nil and cream ensemble consisting of jacket, shirt, blouse and hat. Worn by Amanda Roocroft as Fiordiligi in Mozart's opera Cosi Fan Tutte at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1990s. Designed by Maria Björnson (1949-2002)
Physical description
S.207:1-2018, Jacket

Pale green eau-de-nil jacket decorated with cream lace. The silhouette of the jacket reflects the fashions of the early twentieth century. It follows the line of the body and fits closely at the waist, flaring out slightly at the hips. The front and rear skirt of the jacket are shaped with pleating which adds fullness at the centre back. It has a soft, round, collar with wide revers and the long sleeves extend into a slight point at the wrist. These revers are embellished with panels of scallop edged cream machine lace shaped into a stylised pattern of leaves.

Panels of the same machine lace, set on ribbed eau-de-nil silk[?] are positioned at either side of the front opening. Five buttonholes are present in the panel set behind the proper right side opening. There are no matching buttons in the proper left panel, but there are potential traces of past stitches at the interior. These panels are set behind the proper left and proper right side opening, creating the illusion that a waistcoat is being worn beneath the jacket.

The interior is lined with pale blue polyester. The waist is defined with two shaped panels of the same eau-de-nil fabric as used for the jacket, the edges bound in blue fabric. Layered pairs of cream machine woven petalled flowers have been applied at the proper left and proper right of these fabric panels, creating the effect of a belt with a flower shaped buckle at the front waist. These ‘belts’ run around the rear of the jacket meeting in a widening diamond point at the centre back where it is decorated with a round five petalled layered flower.

S.207:2-2018, Skirt

Long straight eau-de-nil ribbed silk[?] skirt. The interior is lined with blue polyester with the same fabric used to create the wide waistband. The skirt fastens at the centre back with a vertical row of two pairs of hooks and eyes at the waistband and the centre back opening closes with 3 metal press studs.

The skirt is largely plain, but the centre front hem of the skirt front rises up in a softly pointed slit above which the skirt is shaped with 3 rows of triangular pointed pleats. The hem of the skirt is bound with a band of self-coloured eau-de-nil fabric.

S.207:3-2018, Blouse

Cream synthetic[?] blouse extending into a cotton peplum at the waist. The blouse has a soft round collar and long sleeves. It fastens at the centre front with a vertical row of 5 pearlescent buttons, with a press stud fastening at the centre front of the collar and a metal hook and eye at the waist.

The blouse is relatively plain, with a narrow band of cream braid running from the proper right and proper left shoulder to either side of the proper right and proper left waist.

S.207:4-2018, Hat


Straw bicorn hat with wide upturned brim, edged with blue ribbed silk[?] and a round crown. The front section of the brim is upturned and features a pleated fabric rosette at the proper right side. The round crown of the hat is decorated with a spray of white ostrich feathers, grouped together with shorter pale turquoise feathers. The hat is lined with cream polyester[?] and the interior of the brim is faced with a band of gold Petersham ribbon. Three twisted thread loops have also been added to this lining.


Dimensions
  • Jacket, when hanging weight: 0.8kg (approximate)
  • Jacket; collar to front hem, maximum length: 62cm (approximate)
  • Jacket; collar to rear hem, maximum length: 72cm (approximate)
  • Jacket; across front shoulders width: 43.5cm (approximate)
  • Jacket; across rear shoulders width: 32cm (approximate)
  • Skirt; when hanging weight: 0.6kg (approximate)
  • Skirt; waist to front hem length: 68cm (approximate)
  • Skirt; waist to rear hem length: 112cm (approximate)
  • Skirt; across waistband length: 6cm (approximate)
  • Skirt; across front waistband width: 30cm (approximate)
  • Blouse; when hanging weight: 0.3kg (approximate)
  • Blouse; centre front collar to hem length: 47.5cm (approximate)
  • Blouse; centre back collar to hem length: 55.5cm (approximate)
  • Blouse; across front shoulders width: 35.5cm (approximate)
  • Hat; across bicorn, maximum width: 43cm (approximate)
  • Hat; across brim, maximum diameter: 24.5cm (approximate)
  • Hat; upturned brim height: 11cm (approximate)
  • Hat; crown height: 12cm (approximate)
Marks and inscriptions
  • ‘GLYNDEBOURNE OPERA/PRODUCTION: COSI FAN TUTTE/ACT: 1, SCENE: 1/CHARACTER: FIORDILIGI/MISS ROOCROFT’ (Production Label stitched to the interior of the skirt waist. )
  • ‘GLYNDEBOURNE OPERA/AMANDA ROOCROFT/ACT 1 COSI FAN TUTTE’ (A production label stitched to the hem of the proper left opening of the blouse. )
  • ‘GLYNDEBOURNE OPERA/COSI - FIORDILIGI/MISS H FIELD’ (Production label stitched to the interior brim of the hat )
Credit line
Given by Glyndebourne Productions Ltd
Summary
Pale eau de nil and cream ensemble consisting of jacket, shirt, blouse and hat. Worn by Amanda Roocroft as Fiordiligi in Mozart's opera Cosi Fan Tutte at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1990s. Designed by Maria Björnson (1949-2002).
Collection
Accession number
S.207:1 to 4-2018

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Record createdSeptember 4, 2018
Record URL
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