Outer kimono (uchikake), satin silk with embroidery in silk and metal-wrapped threads of flowers in roundels, Japan, 1800-1850

Outer kimono (uchikake) for a young woman, of green satin silk with a design of floral and foliage roundels across the sleeves and top part of the garment, both back and front. There are also five paulownia crests (mon), two on the top front and three across the top back. The roundels, which sometimes overlap each other and sometimes appear singly, are embroidered in polychrome floss silk predominantly in satin stitch and its variation long and short stitch. There is also laid and couched work in various metallic colours, the crests also being worked in this technique. The garment is lined throughout with red crêpe silk self-patterned in the warp with small chrysanthemum roundels and Buddhist motifs. The cuff ends of the sleeves are faced with plain weave red crêpe silk. The garment has a large wadded hem.

Purchased. Registered File number 1983/587.

For a similar kimono see Kirihata (editor) Textiles of Japan vol.4 (2) 'kosode', Tokyo: Chuo Koronsha, 1980, plate 96. NAL Bibliographic Number J.X.46

The long 'swinging sleeves' (furisode) of this kimono indicate that it would have been worn by a young unmarried woman. The family crest, mon, across the shoulders suggest that she was probably a woman of the samurai class, the military aristocracy of Japan in the Edo period (1615-1868). The garment has a large padded hem and was designed as an outer kimono for winter wear. It would have been worn without an obi, the sash that secures the garment, so no part of the beautifully embroidered design would have been obscured.

FE.11-1983