The long 'swinging sleeves' (furisode) of this kimono indicate that it would have been worn by a young unmarried woman. The family crest, mon, across the shoulders suggest that she was probably a woman of the samurai class, the military aristocracy of Japan in the Edo period (1615-1868). The garment has a large padded hem and was designed as an outer kimono for winter wear. It would have been worn without an obi, the sash that secures the garment, so no part of the beautifully embroidered design would have been obscured. The pattern of floral roundels was a favourite among women of the samurai class.
Physical description
Furisode (kimono with swinging sleeves) of green satin weave silk with a design of floral and foliage roundels across the sleeves and top part of the garment, both back and front. There are also five pauwlonia crests (mon), two on the top front and three across the top back.
The roundels, which sometimes overlap each other and sometimes appear singly, are embroidered in polychrome floss silk predominantly in satin stitch and its variation long and short stitch. There is also laid and couched work in various metallic colours, the crests also being worked in this technique.
The garment is lined throughout with red crêpe silk self-patterned in the warp with small chrysanthemum roundels and Buddhist motifs. The cuff ends of the sleeves are faced with plain weave red crêpe silk. The garment has a large wadded hem.
Place of Origin
Japan (made)
Date
1820-1860 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Silk satin with embroidery in silk and metallic thread
Dimensions
Length: 189 cm, Width: 124 cm
Object history note
Purchased. Registered File number 1983/587.
Historical context note
For a similar kimono see Kirihata (editor) Textiles of Japan vol.4 (2) 'kosode', Tokyo: Chuo Koronsha, 1980, plate 96. NAL Bibliographic Number J.X.46
Descriptive line
Kimono, green silk satin embroidered with floral roundels, Japan, Edo period, 1820-1860
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Wilson, Verity, 'Japanese Silk Textiles in the Toshiba Gallery, V&A' in ORIENTATIONS,/u> vol.17, no.12; December 1986 ('The Toshiba Gallery' edition)
Earle, J. (editor), Japanese Art and Design: The Toshiba Gallery Guide, London: V&A Publications, 1986, page 91
Jackson, Anna, Japanese Textiles in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London: V&A Publications, 2000, plate 121
Materials
Silk (textile); Metal thread; Crepe; Floss silk
Techniques
Embroidering; Satin weave
Subjects depicted
Floral patterns; Foliage; Crests
Categories
Textiles; Embroidery; Women's clothes
Collection code
EAS
