Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Not currently on display at the V&A
On short term loan out for exhibition

Kimono

1800-1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This sumptuous outer-kimono (uchikake) was worn by a merchant-class woman during her wedding. These elaborate events required the most extravagant of garments. At the culminating banquet, a bride would wear a sequence of kimono, often in in white, red, and black with matching designs. The folded paper male and female butterflies, executed in a tie-dye technique called shibori, symbolize harmony for the newly married couple. The pattern has been further embellished by embroidery in glossy untwisted silk and gold-wrapped threads which look very striking against the black ground.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Figured satin silk with tie-dyeing and embroidery in silk and gold-wrapped silk threads
Brief description
Kimono, figured satin silk (rinzu) with tie-dyed (shibori) and embroidered decoration of butterflies and plum blossom, probably Kyoto, Japan, 1800-1850
Physical description
Outer kimono for a young woman (uchikake) of figured satin silk (rinzu). The rinzu has a self-pattern of small diapers and flowers. The design of paper gift ornaments in the shape of butterflies has been created using the kanoko shibori (tie-dyeing) technique with the ground dyed black. The kimono has then been embroidered with plum blossom in silk and couched gold-wrapped silk threads. The garment is lined with plain weave red silk which is revealed at the wadded hem.
Dimensions
  • Length: 179cm
  • Width: 124cm
Style
Gallery label
  • Wedding kimono were decorated with auspicious motifs. Here, folded paper male and female butterflies symbolise harmony for the newly married couple. The pattern has been created using the tie-dyeing technique and is further embellished with plum blossoms embroidered in glossy, untwisted silk and shimmering gold-wrapped threads. (29/02/2020)
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1983/587.
Subjects depicted
Summary
This sumptuous outer-kimono (uchikake) was worn by a merchant-class woman during her wedding. These elaborate events required the most extravagant of garments. At the culminating banquet, a bride would wear a sequence of kimono, often in in white, red, and black with matching designs. The folded paper male and female butterflies, executed in a tie-dye technique called shibori, symbolize harmony for the newly married couple. The pattern has been further embellished by embroidery in glossy untwisted silk and gold-wrapped threads which look very striking against the black ground.
Bibliographic references
  • Earle, J. (editor), Japanese Art and Design: The Toshiba Gallery Guide, London: V&A Publications, 1986, page 90
  • Jackson, Anna, Japanese Textiles in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London: V&A Publications, 2000, plate 68
  • Wilson, Verity, 'Japanese Silk Textiles in the Toshiba Gallery, V&A' in ORIENTATIONS vol.17, no.12; December 1986 ('The Toshiba Gallery' edition)
  • Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
FE.28-1984

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Record createdDecember 15, 1999
Record URL
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