Kimono
- Place of origin:
- Date:
- Artist/Maker:
- Materials and Techniques:
Figured silk satin with tie-dyed and embroidered decoration
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
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The padded hem on this kimono indicates that it is an outer kimono, or uchikake, designed for winter wear. Uchikake were worn without an obi, the sash that secures the garment, so no part of the design would have been obscured. The shibori, or tie-dyeing, technique has been used to create a pattern of paper gift ornaments in the shape of butterflies. This has been combined with embroidered plum blossoms. This auspicious motif was a popular one in winter, for it suggested that the arrival of spring was not too far away.
Physical description
Furisode (woman's kimono with wide, swinging sleeves) of black and white figured satin (rinzu). The rinzu has a self-pattern of small diapers and flowers.
The all-over design consists of branches of flowering plum and paper gift ornaments (noshi) folded in the shape of butterflies. The branches are embroidered in satin stitch in tan untwisted silk. The buds and half-open blossoms are also embroidered in satin stitch in white untwisted silk, while the fully opened flowers are executed in coiled gold laid work couched down in pairs with orange stitches. The noshi are reserved in white tie-dye (shibori) sometimes the outline only is picked out in the technique and sometimes the entire design is filled with shibori.
The garment is lined with plain weave thin silk and the cuffs have a facing of red crêpe. There is a small wadded hem.
Place of Origin
Japan (made)
Date
1800-1830 (made)
Artist/maker
unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Figured silk satin with tie-dyed and embroidered decoration
Dimensions
Length: 179 cm, Width: 124 cm
Object history note
Purchased. Registered File number 1983/587.
Descriptive line
Kimono, black figured silk satin with tie-dyed and embroidered decoration of butterflies and plum blossom, Japan, Edo period, 1800-1830
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Earle, J. (editor), Japanese Art and Design: The Toshiba Gallery Guide, London: V&A Publications, 1986, page 90
Jackson, Anna, Japanese Textiles in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London: V&A Publications, 2000, plate 68
Wilson, Verity, 'Japanese Silk Textiles in the Toshiba Gallery, V&A' in ORIENTATIONS vol.17, no.12; December 1986 ('The Toshiba Gallery' edition)
Materials
Silk (textile); Silk thread; Metal thread; Crepe
Techniques
Embroidering; Satin weave; Plain weave; Tie-dyeing
Subjects depicted
Floral patterns; Butterflies; Gifts
Categories
Textiles; Embroidery; Women's clothes
Collection code
EAS
