Necklace Part thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Necklace Part

1987-1988 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This piece is part of the Royal College of Art Visiting Artists Collection. Every year from 1987 to 2006, while David Watkins was Professor of Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork and Jewellery at the RCA, he invited four jewellers and silversmiths from outside Britain to give a week-long masterclass. The artists brought diverse skills, aesthetics and approaches. The first call on their time was to interact closely with the students. In addition, although concentrating on their teaching and working in an unfamiliar studio, each artist generously made an object for the RCA's collection. The Royal College of Art Visiting Artists Collection, now transferred to the V&A, is a major document of international contemporary jewellery, a tribute both to the artists and to the vibrancy of the RCA as a teaching institution.

Archaic forms led by the basic techniques of metalworking are appealing in their primitive appearance and direct expression. Tooling marks remaining on the surface of the metal are evidence of the creative process. Forms resulting from the instinctive blows of the hammer are simple and honest. These specifically hand-wrought jewels reflect the natural qualities of the materials from which they are made.

Even though these artists were inspired by ancient cultures, their jewels are thoroughly individual and modern in style. Max Fröhlich was fascinated by African art and cultures. He made repeated visits to Africa and learnt the Asante method of lost wax casting in Ghana. He and his wife Ruth, translated the Treatises of Goldsmithing by Benvenuto Cellini into German in 1972.

Max Fröhlich studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts, Geneva and then the Kunstgewerbeschule in Zurich, later he taught there for 37 years. Initially Fröhlich worked in the workshop of Wolfers Frères in Brussels and by 1934 had his own workshop.

In an interview with the jewellery historian Beatriz Chadour-Sampson in 1992 he revealed that the Japanese techniques of shakudo and shibuichi, as applied in this element of a neckpiece, were inspired by a small ceramic dish with pink lustre. He found the recipes for both techniques in the American journal ‘Nature’ which was over a hundred years old. He experimented with colour effects and structures. Fröhlich never made preliminary drawings, he modelled his pieces directly in wax or plaster.

He was a prolific silversmith and jeweller who in the twenties was influenced by the doctrines of the Bauhaus, moved on to more sculptural forms and later to modern art jewellery for example made of multi-coloured electrical wires.

This element would have been worn with a leather thong around the neck.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Copper alloy (shibuichi)
Brief description
Made of copper alloy (shibuichi) designed and made by Max Frölich at the RCA, London in 1987-8
Physical description
A curved section of seven overlapping rectangular panels of dark matt metal. At each end is a triangular hole to which a cord or leather thong may be attached.
Dimensions
  • Height: 2.7cm
  • Width: 12.8cm
  • Depth: 1.2cm
Credit line
Royal College of Art Visiting Artists Collection
Production
Made while leading a masterclass at the RCA
Summary
This piece is part of the Royal College of Art Visiting Artists Collection. Every year from 1987 to 2006, while David Watkins was Professor of Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork and Jewellery at the RCA, he invited four jewellers and silversmiths from outside Britain to give a week-long masterclass. The artists brought diverse skills, aesthetics and approaches. The first call on their time was to interact closely with the students. In addition, although concentrating on their teaching and working in an unfamiliar studio, each artist generously made an object for the RCA's collection. The Royal College of Art Visiting Artists Collection, now transferred to the V&A, is a major document of international contemporary jewellery, a tribute both to the artists and to the vibrancy of the RCA as a teaching institution.

Archaic forms led by the basic techniques of metalworking are appealing in their primitive appearance and direct expression. Tooling marks remaining on the surface of the metal are evidence of the creative process. Forms resulting from the instinctive blows of the hammer are simple and honest. These specifically hand-wrought jewels reflect the natural qualities of the materials from which they are made.

Even though these artists were inspired by ancient cultures, their jewels are thoroughly individual and modern in style. Max Fröhlich was fascinated by African art and cultures. He made repeated visits to Africa and learnt the Asante method of lost wax casting in Ghana. He and his wife Ruth, translated the Treatises of Goldsmithing by Benvenuto Cellini into German in 1972.

Max Fröhlich studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts, Geneva and then the Kunstgewerbeschule in Zurich, later he taught there for 37 years. Initially Fröhlich worked in the workshop of Wolfers Frères in Brussels and by 1934 had his own workshop.

In an interview with the jewellery historian Beatriz Chadour-Sampson in 1992 he revealed that the Japanese techniques of shakudo and shibuichi, as applied in this element of a neckpiece, were inspired by a small ceramic dish with pink lustre. He found the recipes for both techniques in the American journal ‘Nature’ which was over a hundred years old. He experimented with colour effects and structures. Fröhlich never made preliminary drawings, he modelled his pieces directly in wax or plaster.

He was a prolific silversmith and jeweller who in the twenties was influenced by the doctrines of the Bauhaus, moved on to more sculptural forms and later to modern art jewellery for example made of multi-coloured electrical wires.

This element would have been worn with a leather thong around the neck.
Bibliographic references
  • Graham Hughes, Modern Jewelry, An International Survey 1890 – 1963, London 1961
  • Gold + Silber Schmuck + Gerät von Albrecht Dürer bis zur Gegenwart, Nuremberg 1971
  • Barbara Cartlidge, Twentieth Century Jewelry, New York 1985
  • Anna Beatriz Chadour, Ringe – Rings, The Alice and Louis Koch Collection, Leeds 1994
  • Helen W. Drutt English/ Peter Dormer, Jewelry of our time, London 1995
  • Fritz Falk/ Cornelie Holzach, Schmuck der Moderne, Modern Jewellery 1960-1998, Stuttgart 1999
  • Antoinette Riklin-Scheibert, Schmuckzeichen Schweiz 20. Jahrhundert, 20th century Swiss Art Jewelry, St. Gallen 1999
  • The Ego Adorned, 20th Century Artist Jewellery, Antwerp 2000
  • Le bijou en Suisse au XXe siècle, La Bibliothèque des Arts, Lausanne 2002
  • ornament as art, Avant-garde jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection, The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, Stuttgart 2007
Collection
Accession number
M.12-2007

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Record createdFebruary 14, 2008
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