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Thumb ring

Thumb ring

  • Place of origin:

    India (possibly, made)
    Pakistan (possibly, made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1600-50 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown (production)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Gold, chased and engraved, and set with rubies and emeralds; the inside enamelled

  • Museum number:

    IM.207-1920

  • Gallery location:

    South Asia, room 41, case 19

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The high quality of this thumb ring strongly suggests that it was a courtly piece. Similar rings are seen in portraits of the Mughal emperors Jahangir and Shah Jahan and their sons in court paintings of about 1620–1630. It is one of a small group of objects using the same technique of setting rubies and emeralds (and in some of the group, minute diamonds) in dense patterns against a ground of chased gold, all dating to about the same period. The thumb ring is enamelled on the inside, as is often the case with Mughal jewellery. Here, however, the motifs and colours of the enamel are strikingly European and this may suggest that the enamelling was done by a European craftsman at the Mughal court, of whom there were a small number at this time. Augustin Hiriart of Bordeaux, for example, produced designs for thrones for Jahangir and Shah Jahan, and was a skilled enameller.

Physical description

Gold filled with lac (a natural resin). Set with rubies and emeralds, and chased on the outer surface; enamelled in champleve on the inner surface (in opaque turquoise, pale green, white and black).

Place of Origin

India (possibly, made)
Pakistan (possibly, made)

Date

ca. 1600-50 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques

Gold, chased and engraved, and set with rubies and emeralds; the inside enamelled

Dimensions

Length: 3.7 cm, Diameter: 3 cm

Object history note

Purchased from Mrs. D.B Barrington in 1920.

Descriptive line

Thumb ring, gold set with rubies and emeralds and enamelled on the inner surface. Mughal, c. 1620-30

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Swallow, Deborah and John Guy eds. Arts of India: 1550-1900. text by Rosemary Crill, John Guy, Veronica Murphy, Susan Stronge and Deborah Swallow. London : V&A Publications, 1990. 240 p., ill. ISBN 1851770224, p.82, no.58. Barnard, Nick. ‘Indian Jewellery : The V&A Collection’. London : V&A Publishing, 2008. ISBN 9781851774838 page 55, pl.3.7.
The Indian Heritage. Court Life and Arts under Mughal Rule, V&A, 1982, cat. 303, p. 109
Susan Stronge, Nima Smith and J.C. Harle, A Golden Treasury. Jewellery from the Indian Subcontinent, Victoria and Albert Museum Indian Art Series, 1988, cat. 93, p. 94.

Exhibition History

The Indian Heritage (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1982-31/12/1982)
A Golden Treasury. (Cartwright Hall, Bradford 01/01/1988-31/12/1988)

Categories

Jewellery

Collection code

SSEA

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Qr_O14460
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