Necklace thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Necklace

1600-1900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jewellery from the Salamanca region is among the oldest and most distinctive in Spain.

In the little village of La Alberca brides traditionally wore a long heavy necklace, together with up to four other smaller ones, on their wedding day. These necklaces could hang down as far as the bride’s knees, and were decorated with heavy religious medallions. The weight was so great that the bride usually tied the necklace to her dress with ribbons to make it easier to wear.

Like all traditional jewellery, the design of this necklace is very conservative. The shape of the beads dates back to the time of Moorish rule in Spain. Similar tubular beads with castellated tops were worn with traditional urban costume in Morocco up to the 20th century. The religious pendants are 17th century in style, and some may be that old. They each carry the attributes of different saints, or images of the Virgin from specific pilgrimage centres. The wearer hoped they would support and protect her.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Necklace
  • Pendant
Materials and techniques
Silver and silver-gilt, with silver-plated copper
Brief description
Heavy silver-gilt necklace (vuelta grande) with religious pendants, La Alberca (Spain), 1600-1900.
Physical description
Heavy silver necklace, consisting of 34 beads and 14 pendants.

15 of the beads are spherical, with applied decoration of wire rings in various patterns.
10 are tubular, with bodies of alternating bands of gallery and twisted wire, with overhanging castellated ends.
2 are stamped, bi-conical.
5 are tubular, with repousse bodies and overhanging castellated ends.
2 are cylindrical, like amulet cases, made of open filigree with domed ends.

The pendants are:
A. Oval, partly filigree, framing a square plaque with St. Barbara on one side, holding a chalice and book, and a male saint, possibly St. Vincent Ferrara, with a book on the other side.
B. Cast circular medallion in decorative frame with an image of the Virgin of the Pillar, Saragossa, on the front. Engraved monogram of AMR on the back.
C. Rectangular plaque with 8 finials, with an Agnus Dei engraved on one side, and IHS on the other.
D. Pierced oval medallion of silver-plated copper, with an image of the Virgin and Child, over a cherub's head, flanked by 2 flying cherubs. On the back are engraved the letters LENAR, with a cross above.
E. Rectangular, with 8 finials. Engraved on one side with the Greek letters PPS, and on the other a double scroll of foliage.
F. Oval cast pierced pieta within a wreath. On the Virgin's breast, a heart pierced by 7 swords. At her feet, a shrouded Christ. Engraved on the back with the letters AGS DAREVALO.
G. Circular with 8 finials. On one side an image of the Virgin, standing on a crescent and flanked by 2 candlesticks. On the other, St. Barbara, holding a martyr's palm branch.
H. Circular with 8 finials. On one side an image of the Virgin and Child, on the other St. Agatha, holding her cut-off breasts on a platter.
I. Cast circular pierced medallion, with the a cross springing from the letters IHS.
J. Oval in filigree frame. The Virgin and Child on one side, and the letters IHS on the other.
K. The Virgin and Child in a pierced architectural frame. The monogram AFVE engraved on the back.
L. Rectangular, with 8 finials. An engraved Agnus Dei on one side, and a cross standing on a mound on the other.
M. Heart-shaped pendant in a pierced filigree frame with 3 finials, from each of which hangs a pendant dove. The pendant is glazed on each side. Under the glass is a filigree heart with the body of Christ with outstretched arms, as if on the cross.
N. Cast figure of the Virgin of the Sagrario, Toledo, in pierced architectural frame.
Dimensions
  • Length: 130cm
  • Width: 12.1cm
  • Depth: 2.8cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • AMR. (Engraved on back of pendant B.)
    Translation
    A[ve] M[a]r[ia], or Hail Mary.
  • LENAR. (Engraved on back of pendant D.)
    Translation
    Our Lady of the Henar (Cuéllar, Segovia).
  • ..PS. (Engraved on pendant 5.)
    Translation
    Abbreviation of Iesu Christo, in Greek characters.
  • AGsD AREVALO. (Engraved on pendant F.)
    Translation
    A[n]G[u]s[tias] D[e] AREVALO, or Our Lady of the Sorrows, Avila.
  • AFVE. (Engraved on pendant K.)
    Translation
    Our Lady of the Fuensanta, Murcia.
Credit line
Dr W.L. Hildburgh Bequest
Summary
Jewellery from the Salamanca region is among the oldest and most distinctive in Spain.

In the little village of La Alberca brides traditionally wore a long heavy necklace, together with up to four other smaller ones, on their wedding day. These necklaces could hang down as far as the bride’s knees, and were decorated with heavy religious medallions. The weight was so great that the bride usually tied the necklace to her dress with ribbons to make it easier to wear.

Like all traditional jewellery, the design of this necklace is very conservative. The shape of the beads dates back to the time of Moorish rule in Spain. Similar tubular beads with castellated tops were worn with traditional urban costume in Morocco up to the 20th century. The religious pendants are 17th century in style, and some may be that old. They each carry the attributes of different saints, or images of the Virgin from specific pilgrimage centres. The wearer hoped they would support and protect her.
Collection
Accession number
M.53:1 to 2-1956

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Record createdJanuary 25, 2008
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