Brooch thumbnail 1
Brooch thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Brooch

1981 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Traditionally colour is introduced to jewellery through enamels or gemstones. In the late 20th century, however, the search for a 'new language' in jewellery led to new techniques and with them, other ways of exploring colour.

Silver could be oxidised to appear black, or chemically treated to be white. Modern colours could be achieved through traditional enamels applied in a painterly fashion, by using stained wood or oriental lacquers. Metals with varying patinas could be mixed to form contrasting visual effects. Resins and synthetics also had visual and expressive power.

Catherine Mannheim is known for her innovative way with silver and coloured golds. White and yellow gold are overlaid with coloured golds to create warm tones and matt textured surfaces. Her jewellery often includes fine gemstones. She studied at Central School of Art, London and at the Werkkunstschule Düsseldorf under the jeweller Friedrich Becker.

She describes her work thus: "I make jewellery that will adorn and become integral to the life of the wearer."


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
White and yellow gold
Brief description
White and yellow gold brooch, part of a set of four made by Catherine Mannheim, England, 1981
Dimensions
  • Height: 2.4cm
  • Width: 4.9cm
  • Depth: 1.1cm
Summary
Traditionally colour is introduced to jewellery through enamels or gemstones. In the late 20th century, however, the search for a 'new language' in jewellery led to new techniques and with them, other ways of exploring colour.

Silver could be oxidised to appear black, or chemically treated to be white. Modern colours could be achieved through traditional enamels applied in a painterly fashion, by using stained wood or oriental lacquers. Metals with varying patinas could be mixed to form contrasting visual effects. Resins and synthetics also had visual and expressive power.

Catherine Mannheim is known for her innovative way with silver and coloured golds. White and yellow gold are overlaid with coloured golds to create warm tones and matt textured surfaces. Her jewellery often includes fine gemstones. She studied at Central School of Art, London and at the Werkkunstschule Düsseldorf under the jeweller Friedrich Becker.

She describes her work thus: "I make jewellery that will adorn and become integral to the life of the wearer."
Associated objects
Collection
Accession number
M.6-1982

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Record createdJanuary 24, 2008
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