Necklace thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Necklace

ca. 1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Bourg-en-Bresse, in the south east of France, specialised in making enamels. The enamellers did not work directly on the finished object, but made individual plaques of enamel in a wide palette of different colours, building up the surface with separate drops of colour and tiny shapes made from gold leaf. The jewellers then set these plaques in jewellery, as if they were precious stones. They often added a tiny stone in the centre of the plaques, creating a rich multi-textured effect.

The British revered French fashion as much in the 19th century as today, and loved the rich colours of Bressan enamels. They believed that these pieces were authentic French peasant jewellery but most never formed part of traditional costume.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver-gilt set with enamels and coloured pastes
Brief description
Silver-gilt necklace decorated with Bressan enamels, Bourg-en-Bresse (France), 19th century.
Physical description
Silver-gilt necklace, consisting of 20 circular enamel medallions, alternating between small ones, and others increasing in size towards the centre, with a central motif of square and circular medallions. Pear-shaped enamel drops hang from the lower edges, and there is a matching circular snap clasp. All the medallions are further decorated with faceted pastes in the centre.
Dimensions
  • Length: 32.5cm
  • Width: 6.8cm
  • Depth: 0.5cm
Marks and inscriptions
'IM' with star in lozenge (On back of clasp.)
Translation
Unknown maker's mark
Credit line
Given by Lt. Col. R. H. R. Brocklebank DSO, in accordance with his wife's wishes
Summary
Bourg-en-Bresse, in the south east of France, specialised in making enamels. The enamellers did not work directly on the finished object, but made individual plaques of enamel in a wide palette of different colours, building up the surface with separate drops of colour and tiny shapes made from gold leaf. The jewellers then set these plaques in jewellery, as if they were precious stones. They often added a tiny stone in the centre of the plaques, creating a rich multi-textured effect.

The British revered French fashion as much in the 19th century as today, and loved the rich colours of Bressan enamels. They believed that these pieces were authentic French peasant jewellery but most never formed part of traditional costume.
Collection
Accession number
M.186-1937

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Record createdJanuary 18, 2008
Record URL
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