Bourg-en-Bresse, in the south east of France, specialised in making enamels. The enamellers did not work directly on the finished object, but made individual plaques of enamel in a wide palette of different colours, building up the surface with separate drops of colour and tiny shapes made from gold leaf. The jewellers then set these plaques in jewellery, as if they were precious stones. They often added a tiny stone in the centre of the plaques, creating a rich multi-textured effect. Many Bressan enamel plaques were exported to other places, particularly Paris, where local goldsmiths used them in their jewellery. This cross has the mark of Paul Ydot of Paris, who worked from 1870 to 1891. It was bought for £1 9s at the International Exhibition, London, 1872.

The British revered French fashion as much in the 19th century as today, and loved the rich colours of Bressan enamels. They believed that these pieces were authentic French peasant jewellery but most never formed part of traditional costume.