Not currently on display at the V&A

Ikat Length

before 1875 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Central Asian ikat fabrics were woven in long lengths like this example and were then used to make larger textiles of one of two types. They were either made into clothing or enlarged and used as hangings around the home. Ikats were high status items, often made under the patronage of the courts. The complex and highly skilled method of production – a process of resist dyeing the silk threads before weaving – meant that ikats were labour-intensive and expensive to produce. For this reason ikat clothing was often reserved for special occasions such as weddings and funerals, and was also given by members of the court as ‘robes of honour’ (khilat) to thank or honour high-ranking guests.

The earliest dated Central Asian ikats in the UK are from the Shaw collection at the Ashmolean Museum, which are known to date from before 1868. The V&A’s collection of lengths of ikat fabrics came into the collection in 1880 from the India Office. Documentation handed over with them record that they were purchased on two separate occasions, the first group in Kabul in 1870 and the second (including this piece) in Yarkand (modern-day Shache in China) in April 1875. We can therefore date these textiles to prior to these acquisition years.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk and cotton warp ikat
Brief description
Narrow length of ikat fabric with a pattern of red squares, yellow crosses and blue and green diamond shapes on a white backround
Physical description
Narrow length of ikat fabric with a pattern of red squares, yellow crosses and blue and green diamond shapes on a white backround.
Dimensions
  • Length: 254cm
  • Width: 30.5cm
Gallery label
Ikat length with red squares Acquired Yarkand, 1875 Silk and cotton Museum no. 2106 (IS)(05/11/2007 to 30/03/2008)
Object history
The earliest dated Central Asian ikats in the UK are from the Shaw collection at the Ashmolean Museum, which are known to date from before 1868. The V&A’s collection of lengths of ikat fabrics came into the collection in 1880 from the India Office. Documentation handed over with them record that they were purchased on two separate occasions, the first group in Kabul in 1870 and the second (including this piece) in Yarkand (modern-day Shache in China) in April 1875. We can therefore date these textiles to prior to these acquisition years.
Historical context
The ‘golden age’ of nineteenth century Central Asian ikats is closely bound up with the economic and cultural dynamism of the cities which produced it – such as Samarkand and Bukhara, in modern-day Uzbekistan, and Kabul and Kunduz in Afghanistan. Large neighbourhoods existed to house the dyers, weavers, binders and designers whose collaborative activity went into the making of ikat fabrics.

Central Asian ikat fabrics were woven in long lengths like this example and were then used to make larger textiles of one of two types. They were either made into clothing or enlarged and used as hangings around the home. Ikats were high status items, often made under the patronage of the courts. The complex and highly skilled method of production – a process of resist dyeing the silk threads before weaving – meant that ikats were labour-intensive and expensive to produce. For this reason ikat clothing was often reserved for special occasions such as weddings and funerals, and was also given by members of the court as ‘robes of honour’ (khilat) to thank or honour high-ranking guests.
Production
Acquired in Yarkand (modern-day Shache in China) in 1875
Summary
Central Asian ikat fabrics were woven in long lengths like this example and were then used to make larger textiles of one of two types. They were either made into clothing or enlarged and used as hangings around the home. Ikats were high status items, often made under the patronage of the courts. The complex and highly skilled method of production – a process of resist dyeing the silk threads before weaving – meant that ikats were labour-intensive and expensive to produce. For this reason ikat clothing was often reserved for special occasions such as weddings and funerals, and was also given by members of the court as ‘robes of honour’ (khilat) to thank or honour high-ranking guests.

The earliest dated Central Asian ikats in the UK are from the Shaw collection at the Ashmolean Museum, which are known to date from before 1868. The V&A’s collection of lengths of ikat fabrics came into the collection in 1880 from the India Office. Documentation handed over with them record that they were purchased on two separate occasions, the first group in Kabul in 1870 and the second (including this piece) in Yarkand (modern-day Shache in China) in April 1875. We can therefore date these textiles to prior to these acquisition years.
Bibliographic reference
Clark, Ruby Central Asian Ikats, V&A Publications, London, 2007. 96 p. : ill. (chiefly col.) ISBN: 9781851775255 (pbk.) 1851775250 (pbk.) p. 92,93
Other number
13,017 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
2106(IS)

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Record createdJanuary 16, 2008
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