Cross thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Cross

1798-1809 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Crosses are the most distinctive element in French traditional jewellery. Every French woman had one. They usually wore them on a black velvet ribbon, fastened tightly round the neck like a choker, with a slide at the front. The ribbon passes through the bale of the cross, and is then threaded through a hole or loop at the base of the slide, and out at either side. It is tied in a bow at the back of the neck.

Normandy has the greatest variety of crosses, some so elaborate as to be almost unrecognisable. The croix bosse is made from two thin sheets of metal, stamped in a mould to produce the characteristic bosses, soldered together round the edge. It is one of the earliest of the Normandy crosses. The design dates from the 18th century, as shown by the stylised fleur de lys at the top, when it was worn throughout France. By the 19th century it was only worn in Normandy. It was always worn with a heart-shaped slide, decorated with filigree tracery.

Croix bosses were made of gold, silver, or gilt metal. The pattern of the decoration, like faceted stones, and the flexible lower part, caught the light and flashed enticingly as the wearer moved.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Stamped gold sheet with applied filigree
Brief description
Hollow gold pendant cross (croix bosse) and slide, Normandy (France), 1798-1809.
Physical description
Hollow gold cross made from four round faceted bosses, with smaller elements in the interstices of the arms, with the lowest part made from a matching loose pear-shaped drop. At the top of the cross is a flat projection, shaped like a fleur-de-lys, with a hole for suspension, with a large ring threaded through it. The cross is suspended by black tape from a hollow heart, with applied filigree tracery on the front and three holes on the back.
Dimensions
  • Length: 15.5cm
  • Width: 6.6cm
  • Depth: 2.3cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • Cockerel's head facing right in a shaped frame. (On the flat part of the fleur-de-lys on the cross, and on the rim of the largest hole on the back of the heart.)
    Translation
    Restricted warranty mark for gold, Paris, 1798-1809.
  • Lozenge with illegible initials. (Next to rim of the largest hole on the back of the heart.)
    Translation
    Mark of unidentified maker.
Subjects depicted
Summary
Crosses are the most distinctive element in French traditional jewellery. Every French woman had one. They usually wore them on a black velvet ribbon, fastened tightly round the neck like a choker, with a slide at the front. The ribbon passes through the bale of the cross, and is then threaded through a hole or loop at the base of the slide, and out at either side. It is tied in a bow at the back of the neck.

Normandy has the greatest variety of crosses, some so elaborate as to be almost unrecognisable. The croix bosse is made from two thin sheets of metal, stamped in a mould to produce the characteristic bosses, soldered together round the edge. It is one of the earliest of the Normandy crosses. The design dates from the 18th century, as shown by the stylised fleur de lys at the top, when it was worn throughout France. By the 19th century it was only worn in Normandy. It was always worn with a heart-shaped slide, decorated with filigree tracery.

Croix bosses were made of gold, silver, or gilt metal. The pattern of the decoration, like faceted stones, and the flexible lower part, caught the light and flashed enticingly as the wearer moved.
Collection
Accession number
59-1869

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdJanuary 11, 2008
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest