Not currently on display at the V&A

Skirt Suit

ca. 1956 (made)
Artist/Maker
Chanel (made and retailed by)
Chanel, Coco (designer)
Place of origin
France (made)

In 1954, at the age of 71, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s (1883–1971) presented her comeback collection, after an absence of fifteen years. She challenged the formality and complexity of the fashions of the time, and was critical of designers such as Christian Dior (1905-57). Pat Cunningham, editor of Vogue said, ‘Femininity had gone too far – you needed stage-coach luggage to pack your frocks in and ladies’ maids to fix the trimmings and petticoats. Chanel simplified clothes to meet modern needs.’

This practical, elegant suit is typical of the type of designs that propelled Chanel once again to the forefront of fashion. The top is made of a comfortable wool jersey, and the jacket is loose fitting.

The suit was worn by the 1950s model Anne Gunning Parker (later Lady Nutting).

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read What makes CHANEL so iconic? During her 60-year career, fashion designer Gabrielle Chanel (1883 – 1971) took a consistent and considered approach to her aesthetic.

Object details

Categories
Fashion
Womenswear
Day Wear
Europeana Fashion Project
Object type
Skirt suit
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Top
  • Skirt
  • Jacket
Materials and techniques
Wool tweed and silk lining with wool jersey trim
Tweed
Silk (Textile)
Jersey
Woven
Hand Sewn
Lined
Brief description
Wool tweed skirt and jacket with wool jersey trim and matching wool jersey top, designed by Gabrielle Chanel for CHANEL, Paris, France, ca. 1956
Physical description
Women's three-piece suit consisting of a skirt, deep rust wool tweed jacket lined in navy blue silk, and a navy blue jersey top with a bow at the neck. Skirt is in rust wool tweed. Buttons covered in rust wool with navy silk centres.
Style
1950s
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
'CHANEL' (Label)
Gallery label
  • [Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024] SUIT In 1955 Vogue reported from the Paris collections on ‘a suit that is a fashion law unto itself – that is to say a Chanel suit. It is one of the few fitted-to-the-waist suits in Paris.’ Although Chanel was later known for the boxy cut of her jackets, the period of her relaunch saw her acknowledge the prevailing line of fashion, albeit in her own subtle style as this fitted jacket demonstrates. About 1956 Wool tweed, jersey and silk V&A: T.123 to B-1990 Given by Sir Anthony Nutting in memory of Anne, Lady Nutting(16/09/2023)
  • Three-piece suit Gabrielle Chanel (1883-1971) Paris Mid 1950s Chanel's comeback collection in 1954, after an absence of fifteen years, challenged the formality and complexity of much couture. Pat Cunningham, editor of Vogue, said, 'Femininity had gone too far - you needed stage-coach luggage to pack your frocks in and ladies' maids to fix the trimmings and petticoats. Chanel simplified clothes to meet modern needs.' Tweed and jersey Worn by the model Anne Gunning Parker (later Lady Nutting) and given by Lord Anthony Nutting V&A: T.123&A, B-1990(22/09/2007)
Credit line
Given by Sir Anthony Nutting, in memory of Anne, Lady Nutting
Object history
Register File number 1990/125.

Worn by the model Anne Gunning Parker (later Lady Nutting) and given by Lord Anthony Nutting.

Chanel's come-back in 1954 (after an absence of 15 years), means that this is a very rare example of the period. The first collection was not very popular and the editor of Vogue Bettina Ballard recalls that only about six outfits were ordered by buyers [de la Haye, A. & Tobin, S. Chanel: The Couturiere at Work (V&A Publications, 1994), p.94].

This suit was part of a large donation of Lady Nutting's Chanel clothes given by Lord Nutting upon her death, all of which were dated by him as 1960s. The suit has been reattributed to the mid to late 1950s. The suit seems to have been altered at the jacket.
Subject depicted
Bow
Association
Lady Nutting
Summary
In 1954, at the age of 71, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s (1883–1971) presented her comeback collection, after an absence of fifteen years. She challenged the formality and complexity of the fashions of the time, and was critical of designers such as Christian Dior (1905-57). Pat Cunningham, editor of Vogue said, ‘Femininity had gone too far – you needed stage-coach luggage to pack your frocks in and ladies’ maids to fix the trimmings and petticoats. Chanel simplified clothes to meet modern needs.’

This practical, elegant suit is typical of the type of designs that propelled Chanel once again to the forefront of fashion. The top is made of a comfortable wool jersey, and the jacket is loose fitting.

The suit was worn by the 1950s model Anne Gunning Parker (later Lady Nutting).
Bibliographic references
  • Wilcox, C. & Mendes, V. Modern Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 1991, p.56, ISBN 1 85177 032 1
  • de la Haye, A. & Tobin, S. Chanel: The Couturiere at Work V&A Publications, 1994, p.107.
  • Cullen, Oriole and Karol Burks, Connie. "Gabrielle Chanel". London: V&A Publishing, 2023 p 200 In 1955 Vogue reported from the Paris collections on ‘a suit that is a fashion-law unto itself – that is to say a Chanel suit. It is one of the few fitted to the waist suits in Paris’. Although Chanel was later known for the boxy cut of her jackets, the period of her relaunch saw her acknowledging the prevailing line of fashion, albeit in her own style as this fitted jacket demonstrates. The rich burgundy tweed of the suit is offset by a deep navy jersey facing on the lapels and cuffs and a trim on the pockets and buttons. In place of a blouse is a charming fitted jersey jumper with buttoned waistline and a small jersey bow at the neck. The suit is one of a number of pieces donated to the V&A from the wardrobe of the model Anne Gunning, later Lady Nutting.
Collection
Textiles and Fashion Collection
Accession number
T.123 to B-1990

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Record createdJanuary 10, 2008
Record URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O143168/skirt-suit-chanel-coco/
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