Jean Dessès’s fascination with draping and classical form resulted in gowns of great technical complexity. The intricate pleating across the bodice here is an example of a construction technique that Dessès favoured both for early evening and formal occasions. Although the bodice appears to be soft and unstructured, it is supported by the sewn-in boning common at the time. Dessès's early evening wear used a subtle palette of creams, beiges and pale pinks, but he later introduced vibrant reds as in this example.
Physical description
Full length strapless evening dress of red silk chiffon features Dessès's virtuoso pleating technique. A long tie crosses over the neck and falls to the back. With integral boning.
Place of Origin
France (made)
Date
ca. 1953 (made)
Artist/maker
Jean Dessès, born 1904 - died 1970 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Pleated silk chiffon with integral boning
Object history note
Opal Holt was born in Canada in 1887 but lived in the US until the end of the Second World War. She travelled extensively between the wars and was in the first plane to land in Bali. She married Herbert Holt, a Canadian who lived a large part of his life in England, as her third husband in 1946. They came to England and Europe every summer and Opal Holt began buying clothes in Paris for her life in England, and for the Bahamas in Winter, over a period of about thirty years. She died in 1980.
Given by Mrs D.M Haynes and Mrs. Clark (nee Holt; Opal Holt's step-daughters).
Descriptive line
Full length strapless evening dress of silk chiffon, designed by Jean Dessès, France, ca. 1953
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Stanfill, S., 'Jean Dessès' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.84-5 and pl.3.15
In his early designs, Dessès' evening wear is characterized by a subtle colour palette of creams, beiges and pale pinks, but later he introduced vibrant reds, often employing two similar shades in the same dress but softening their intensity by using matt chiffon fabric. A strapless red evening dress form around 1953 highlights Dessès' virtuoso pleating. The skirt's delicate drapery envelopes the wearer in softly gathered swags, and a long tie crosses over at the neck, falling to the back. The intricate pleating across the bodice is an example of the construction technique Dessès favoured for both early evening and formal occasions. Although the bodice appears to be soft and unstructured, it features the sewn-in boning common at the time.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Evening dress (robe du soir longue)
Jean Dessès (1904–70)
Paris
About 1953
Dessès’s fascination with draping and classical form resulted in gowns of great technical complexity. Although the bodice appears to be soft and unstructured, it is supported by the sewn-in boning common at the time.
Chiffon
Worn by Mrs Opal Holt and given by Mrs Haynes and Mrs Clark [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Materials
Silk chiffon
Techniques
Pleating; Boning
Categories
Textiles; Fashion; Evening wear; Formal wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
