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October 1964 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Mary Quant’s first boutique, Bazaar, opened in London's King's Road in 1955, launching a successful fashion career. Her youthful easy-to-wear clothing became so popular that in 1963, she launched a lower-priced ready-to-wear range called 'Ginger Group'. She also entered into licensing agreements with manufacturers to produce hosiery, underwear, cosmetics and accessories bearing her name. Almost anyone, whatever their income, could spare the money to buy a pair of 'Mary Quant' stockings or a lipstick. This enabled girls who could not otherwise afford her clothing to feel in touch with fashion, and made Mary Quant into a household name and a commercial success.

Her contribution to British life was marked by a retrospective exhibition at the London Museum in 1973. The exhibition included many of Quant's most revolutionary garments, some remade as facsimiles if original ones could not be found.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 5 parts.

  • Dress
  • Belt
  • Stocking
  • Stocking
  • Hat
Materials and techniques
wool, woven and knitted
Brief description
Co-ordinated ensemble of plaid wool dress with knitted sleeves, stockings and bonnet, British, Mary Quant, 1964.
Physical description
Cream wool straight-cut dress with red and navy checks, knitted cowl neckline and natural cream cable-knit wool sleeves. Tie-belt of checked wool. Co-ordinating cable-knit natural wool bonnet and stockings.
Production typeReady to wear
Gallery label
  • [Mary Quant exhbition, 2019] TATTERSALL CHECK DRESS 1964 Evolving from the separate pinafore-and-sweater look, Quant joined them into a single garment. This outfit combines chunky cable-knit sleeves and collar with a Tattersall check dress with a shirt tail, like a man’s oversized sweater and shirt. According to Harper’s Bazaar, the dress was from the exclusive Mary Quant range available only from Bazaar for 15 guineas (about £277 today). Knitted wool and wool-twill Tattersall check, probably woven in Salter’s Mill, Trowbridge, Wiltshire Labelled ‘Mary Quant’ Made in the Mary Quant sample workroom for the 1973 exhibition, Mary Quant’s London Given by Mary Quant Ltd V&A: T.107&A-1976(30/03/2020)
  • DAY OUTFIT (dress, belt, stockings and bonnet) hand-knitted wool and woven checked wool British: Mary Quant, 1964 The pair of stockings and bonnet are made to match the knitted sleeves, collar and belt of the mini-dress. These are made from double knitting wool in rib and cable stitches. The dress fastens with a zip at the back and is lined. Patterned stockings were in vogue in the mid 1960s when legs were revealed by the new very short skirt lengths. Designers took this opportunity to create a 'total look' by producing stockings and later tights to match or co-ordinate with their outfits. This outfit was shown in the Mary Quant exhibition held at the Museum of London in 1974. Given by Mary Quant T.107 to E-1976
Credit line
Given by Mary Quant
Object history
Although many of the 1973 acquisitions of garments from the Museum of London retrospective of Quant's work were remade at the time, this dress appears to be an original 1960s piece. The remade pieces are in pristine unworn condition and contain 1973 labels, whilst this dress is unlabelled, shows signs of having been worn, and could very well be from Mary Quant's personal wardrobe, as several photographs exist of her wearing this design. For example, a photograph of Quant in her design studio wearing this dress is published on page 10 of Radical Rags: Fashion of the Sixties by Joel Lobenthal. She is not wearing the co-ordinating bonnet or stockings.

Another photograph taken on 29 October 1964 by an Evening Standard photographer and held in the Hulton Archive collection, is viewable on the Getty Images database (reference number #3366283). It shows a full length shot of Mary Quant (wearing the dress and belt but not the associated accessories), the hairdresser Vidal Sassoon, and Sundra Mundy sitting in a pub.
- Daniel Milford-Cottam (2011)
Production
Although many of the 1976 Quant acquisitions were remade in the early 1970s for the Museum of London retrospective in 1973, this dress is probably an original 1964 piece from Mary Quant's personal wardrobe.
Summary
Mary Quant’s first boutique, Bazaar, opened in London's King's Road in 1955, launching a successful fashion career. Her youthful easy-to-wear clothing became so popular that in 1963, she launched a lower-priced ready-to-wear range called 'Ginger Group'. She also entered into licensing agreements with manufacturers to produce hosiery, underwear, cosmetics and accessories bearing her name. Almost anyone, whatever their income, could spare the money to buy a pair of 'Mary Quant' stockings or a lipstick. This enabled girls who could not otherwise afford her clothing to feel in touch with fashion, and made Mary Quant into a household name and a commercial success.

Her contribution to British life was marked by a retrospective exhibition at the London Museum in 1973. The exhibition included many of Quant's most revolutionary garments, some remade as facsimiles if original ones could not be found.
Bibliographic reference
Carter, Ernestine. Mary Quant's London, London Museum, 1973 28
Collection
Accession number
T.107, A-D-1976

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Record createdNovember 30, 2007
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