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Coat - New Look

New Look

  • Object:

    Coat

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    1947-1948 (designed)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Dior, Christian, born 1905 - died 1957 (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mrs J. Wates

  • Museum number:

    T.197-1997

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Physical description

Coat of dark blue-purple silk. With sloping shoulders and a Magyar sleeve. Double-breasted, fastening with self-covered buttons. The narrow cinched waist flares into a full skirt with typical 'New Look' emphasis placed on the hips with both padding, and exaggerated pockets.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)

Date

1947-1948 (designed)

Artist/maker

Dior, Christian, born 1905 - died 1957 (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Silk

Marks and inscriptions

'11919'
Printed on the label

Dimensions

Circumference: 96 cm bust, Circumference: 70 cm waist, Circumference: 160 cm bottom hem, Weight: 2.00 kg

Historical context note

THE NEW LOOK panel text from The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957

Dior launched his new house on 12 February 1947 and became an overnight sensation. His voluptuous collection was the antithesis of lean, boxy wartime fashions. Instead, feminine designs featured rounded shoulders, a womanly bust and a hand-span waist above enormous skirts. It was christened on the spot by Carmel Snow, editor of American Harper's Bazaar, as the 'New Look'.

The amount of fabric required to create a New Look garment - typically 15 metres in a woollen day dress, 25 metres in a short taffeta evening gown - caused outrage, for rationing was still in place. The collection was shown in secret to Princess Margaret at the French Embassy in London. But despite attempts by the Board of Trade to suppress it, the New Look was unstoppable.

Descriptive line

'New Look' coat of silk, designed by Christian Dior, Paris, 1947-1948

Labels and date

Coat and hat
Christian Dior (1905-57)
Paris
1947-8

The complex artistry of Dior's garments demanded a high level of dressmaking skills. Dior revived traditional techniques of construction, using solid fabrics reinforced with taffeta or cambric.

Coat: silk
Hat: cellophane with ribbon trim

Hat worn by Mrs Opal Holt and given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark
V&A: T.197-1997 (coat) and T.156-1982 (hat) [22/09/2007]

Materials

Silk (textile)

Techniques

Weaving

Categories

Fashion; Clothing; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Haute couture

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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