Necklace
1840-1870 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
The most characteristic item in Austrian and South German traditional jewellery is the Kropfkette (goitre chain), a choker of multiple rows of chain with an imposing clasp at the front. It was originally worn to hide the ugly swelling caused by goitre, a disease of iodine deficiency endemic in the high Alps. Many women in Austria and Bavaria still wear these distinctive necklaces on special occasions.
The use of filigree is typical of traditional jewellery from the region. Filigree was made in many centres, and also imported from Schwäbisch Gmünd. Many of the pieces were put together by home workers, including women and children. This kept costs down, and allowed the manufacturers to sell their goods at a low price.
South German filigree is often decorated with garnets, as here.
The use of filigree is typical of traditional jewellery from the region. Filigree was made in many centres, and also imported from Schwäbisch Gmünd. Many of the pieces were put together by home workers, including women and children. This kept costs down, and allowed the manufacturers to sell their goods at a low price.
South German filigree is often decorated with garnets, as here.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Silver chains, with silver filigree and garnets, and an imitation pearl |
| Brief description | Choker of silver chains (Kropfkette) with an elaborate filigree and garnet clasp, Austria, 1840-1870. |
| Physical description | Choker of eight graduated rows of box chain, with a large rectangular snap clasp at the front, with incurved edges, decorated with filigree scrolls and set with garnets and imitation pearls. |
| Dimensions |
|
| Credit line | Given by Jane Souter Hipkins |
| Summary | The most characteristic item in Austrian and South German traditional jewellery is the Kropfkette (goitre chain), a choker of multiple rows of chain with an imposing clasp at the front. It was originally worn to hide the ugly swelling caused by goitre, a disease of iodine deficiency endemic in the high Alps. Many women in Austria and Bavaria still wear these distinctive necklaces on special occasions. The use of filigree is typical of traditional jewellery from the region. Filigree was made in many centres, and also imported from Schwäbisch Gmünd. Many of the pieces were put together by home workers, including women and children. This kept costs down, and allowed the manufacturers to sell their goods at a low price. South German filigree is often decorated with garnets, as here. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | M.430-1911 |
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| Record created | October 5, 2007 |
| Record URL |
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