Few women in Europe cut their hair before the 20th century. They kept it in order by twisting or braiding it, often mixed with coloured ribbons, and held it in place with hair pins. These came in many shapes and sizes, depending on the local fashion. Hair pins worn with traditional dress were usually large and decorative. They were made of silver, sometimes set with coloured stones, and often matched their owner’s other jewellery.

In Austria and South Germany women often wore a small cap at the back of their head, richly decorated with gold thread. This was held in place by a large hair pin, like this one, with a decorative filigree head, and a blunt end. Special holes, like button holes, were cut in the cap to allow the pin to pass through easily, and prevent it from damaging the expensive fabric.

Filigree is one of the commonest elements of traditional jewellery from the south German region. The swirling shape of the petals round the central garnet on this pin is typical of filigree from the region, as is the flat-cut garnet itself. They are found on buttons and choker clasps as well as hair pins.