Court dress panel
- Place of origin:
- Date:
- Artist/Maker:
- Materials and Techniques:
Embroidered silk satin with silks, velvet appliqué, chenille, metal purl, swansdown
- Credit Line:
Given by the Royal School of Needlework
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
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This magnificent embroidered panel was intended for a woman's Court mantua. It shows the high standard of French needlework and the sequence of decorating and sewing up these opulent formal garments. A length of cream silk satin has had the outline of a panel drawn onto it, which has then been decorated to shape. When cut out and sewn, it would have formed the left side of the wearer's train at the back of the mantua. The matching petticoat would have been embroidered with the same pattern.
The rich labour-intensive work shows 18th century French embroidery at its most complex. The cream satin ground has pink, mauve and green silk appliqué, folded to create the illusion of swagged fabric drapes. Swansdown, coloured metal threads, chenille embroidery, and small beads of padded satin add further detail and texture. The flowers are cut out of velvet and appliquéd, whilst the leaves and peacock feathers are embroidered.
Physical description
Court dress panel consisting of a length of embroidered ivory silk satin. The shaped panel is straight fronted but curves to the right at the hemline. The edge is bordered by a row of chenille feathering, and by a floral border of appliqué velvet flowers, coloured metal purl and embroidered leaves. The borders are edged with rows of padded rondels. Within the border is an applied pink satin panel, its inner edge cut into four scallops, which are decorated with padded swathes of green and mauve satin edged with swansdown, and decorated with padded rondels and puffs of swansdown. From the points of the scallops rise exotic sprays of embroidered peacock feathers, appliqué roses, and other flowers. Silks on satin in long and short, and satin stitches.
Place of Origin
France (made)
Date
ca. 1780 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Embroidered silk satin with silks, velvet appliqué, chenille, metal purl, swansdown
Dimensions
Length: 188.5 cm, Width: 75 cm, Width: 29.75 in, Length: 64 in
Descriptive line
Court dress panel consisting of a length of embroidered silk satin, France, ca. 1780
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Fastes de Cour et Cérémonies Royales. Le Costume de Cour en Europe 1650-1800, Paris, 2009, p . 259, cat. 113 and Fig. 55, p. 85.
Exhibition History
Fastes de cour et cérémonies royals, Chateau de Versailles (01/01/2003-28/06/2009)
Materials
Silk; Silk thread; Velvet; Satin; Chenille; Swansdown; Purl
Techniques
Embroidery; Appliqué
Subjects depicted
Flowers; Roses; Swags; Wreaths (costume accessories); Peacock feathers; Scallops
Categories
Textiles; Embroidery; Fashion; Formal wear; Women's clothes
Collection code
T&F
