Not currently on display at the V&A

Double-Breasted Suit

ca. 1904 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Light-coloured suits such as this became popular in the 1890s. The matching coat, trousers and waistcoat in pin-striped flannel (known as 'dittos') were accepted dress for summer sports and holidays. The outfit was often completed with a straw boater.

The striped jacket had originally been worn for cricket, tennis and rowing and it became fashionable for seaside wear during the 1880s. The cut of this jacket is derived from the earlier 'reefer' coat, usually worn for sailing. The infiltration of sporting dress into informal styles of clothing shows how social conventions were relaxing in the late 19th century.

Conventions in dress applied to informal as well as more formal wear. It was important to be dressed appropriately for the occasion. One gentlemen's etiquette book wrote:

There are special suits for all kinds of outdoor amusements, such as shooting, golfing, tennis, boating, driving, riding, bicycling, fishing, hunting, &c., but into the details of these it is unnecessary to enter. It may be remarked, however, that it is easy to stultify the whole effect of these, however perfectly they may be 'built' by the tailor, by the addition of a single incongruous article of attire; such as a silk hat or patent boots with a shooting-suit. (Mrs Humphry, Manners for Men, London 1897)


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Jacket
  • Trousers
Materials and techniques
Flannel, lined with cotton, mother-of-pearl, brass, bone
Brief description
Man's double-breasted suit consisting of flannel jacket and trousers, Great Britain, ca. 1904
Physical description
Man's double-breasted suit consisting of cream flannel jacket and trousers woven with a thin blue vertical pin-stripe.

The jacket is hip length, a three-button double-breasted with a button hole in the high wide lapels. It can be buttoned either side. There is a breast pocket and pockets at the hips, which fasten with a button and button hole. There are two buttons at the wrist. The body of the jacket is unlined, but the sleeves are lined with white cotton. The shoulders are not padded. The buttons are of mother-of-pearl.

The trousers have a fly front with bone buttons, tabs of self material for a hip-belt, and hip pockets. They are straight cut, obliquely at the ankle to fit over the shoe. The top is lined with white cotton and there are six buttons stitched inside the top for the braces, two of which are stamped 'Burberry & Sons, London'. At the back is a tab with a double pronged brass metal button.
Marks and inscriptions
'Burberry & Sons, London' (Stamped on two buttons)
Credit line
Given by Mrs Brooks
Object history
Light coloured suits such as this one became popular from about the 1890's, and matching coat and trousers (dittos) were accepted dress for summer sports and holidays. The cut of the jacket is derived from the earlier reefer coat, usually worn for sailing.
Summary
Light-coloured suits such as this became popular in the 1890s. The matching coat, trousers and waistcoat in pin-striped flannel (known as 'dittos') were accepted dress for summer sports and holidays. The outfit was often completed with a straw boater.

The striped jacket had originally been worn for cricket, tennis and rowing and it became fashionable for seaside wear during the 1880s. The cut of this jacket is derived from the earlier 'reefer' coat, usually worn for sailing. The infiltration of sporting dress into informal styles of clothing shows how social conventions were relaxing in the late 19th century.

Conventions in dress applied to informal as well as more formal wear. It was important to be dressed appropriately for the occasion. One gentlemen's etiquette book wrote:

There are special suits for all kinds of outdoor amusements, such as shooting, golfing, tennis, boating, driving, riding, bicycling, fishing, hunting, &c., but into the details of these it is unnecessary to enter. It may be remarked, however, that it is easy to stultify the whole effect of these, however perfectly they may be 'built' by the tailor, by the addition of a single incongruous article of attire; such as a silk hat or patent boots with a shooting-suit. (Mrs Humphry, Manners for Men, London 1897)
Collection
Accession number
T.159&A-1969

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Record createdDecember 15, 1999
Record URL
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