Cocktail dresses gained a new popularity after the Second World War. They were worn at early evening or ‘6 to 8’ gatherings. Since guests usually stood and mingled, the gowns could include complex bustles, appliqué and skirt details, which would be crushed if sat on.
In his book the Little Dictionary of Fashion (1954) Christian Dior (1905-57) described cocktail dresses as ‘elaborate and dressy afternoon frocks’, preferably in black taffeta, satin, chiffon and wool. These confections became the personification of the ‘little black dress’ and were often accessorised with gloves and small, elaborate hats.
This dress was designed by Michael Sherard (1910–98) for his acclaimed 1958 spring collection.
The flamenco dress was a recurring theme in 1950s cocktail and evening wear. Sherard’s version has a bell-like skirt and train made entirely of lace, his trademark fabric.
Physical description
Black lace evening dress, with wide V neckline, long tight sleeves, fitted bodice and full skirt. The skirt has a short hemline in the front, dipping into a train in the back. Trimmed with appliqué flowers of taffeta.
Place of Origin
London, England (made)
Date
1958 (made)
Artist/maker
Michael Sherard, born 1910 - died 1998 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
French re-embroidered ribbon lace, with taffeta
Dimensions
Circumference: 80 cm bust, Circumference: 58 cm waist, Diameter: 81 cm footprint of skirt
Object history note
Given by the designer
Descriptive line
Lace evening dress, designed by Michael Sherard, London, spring/summer 1958.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
De la Haye, A., 'Material Evidence' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London), p.102 & pl.4.12
When Michael Sherard, who originally trained as a painter realised that fashion was his vocation, he approached couturier Peter Russell to undertake an apprenticeship (making Russell the first London couturier to take on an articled pupil, for a premium of £100). In 1946, Sherard opened his own house at 24 Connaught Street, where his fist collection, shown in February 1947, included evening dresses in cotton and more formal designs in silk, many decorated with a beautiful floral corsage, some of which appeared to be dappled with dew. Sherard worked extensively with lace; the V&A has a black Swiss lace evening dress with raised, self-fabric flowers, designed by Sherard in 1957 for his acclaimed Spring 1958 collection. The couturier presented this dress to Cecil Beaton for the exhibition 'Fashion: An Anthology' (1971) at the V&A. Sherard closed his salon in 1964.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Labels and date
[Case panel]
Cocktail and Early Evening
Daywear was followed by formal afternoon dresses (robes après-midi habillées), cocktail dresses (robes de cocktail), semi-evening (robes demi-soir) and short evening dresses (robes du soir courtes). These distinctions became simpler as the decade progressed and social codes began to break down.
Cocktail dresses first appeared in the 1920s and gained a new popularity after the war. They were worn at early evening or '6 to 8' gatherings, where guests usually stood and mingled. The gowns could include complex bustles and skirt details, which would be crushed if sat on.
In his book the Little Dictionary of Fashion (1954) Christian Dior described cocktail dresses as 'elaborate and dressy afternoon frocks', preferably in black taffeta, satin, chiffon and wool. These confections became the personification of the 'little black dress' and were often accessorised with gloves and small hats.
[object label]
Cocktail dress (robe de cocktail)
Michael Sherard (1910–98)
London
1958
The flamenco dress was a reoccurring theme in 1950s evening wear. Sherard’s version has a bell-like skirt and train made entirely of lace, his trademark fabric.
French re-embroidered ribbon lace, with taffeta
Given by Mr John Fraser and Mr Michael Sherard
V&A: T.403-1974 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Materials
Silk; Lace; Taffeta
Techniques
Appliqué
Subjects depicted
Flowers
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
