This dress was designed by Antonio del Castillo (1908–84) for the couture house of Lanvin in 1957. It was embroidered by the house of Lesage, a famous French embroidery firm. The design was created by François Lesage (b.1929), who inherited the business in 1949, and was inspired by the embroidery on 18th century waistcoats.
Gowns that were to be embroidered were usually simply cut, like this one, to show off their sumptuous surface detail.
Physical description
White silk zibeline evening dress, with shoulder straps, fitted bodice, tulip-shaped skirt with slight gathering. Embroidered in vibrant purple chenille and diamante in a formal floral design.
Place of Origin
Paris (made)
Date
1957 (made)
Artist/maker
del Castillo, Antonio, born 1908 - died 1984 (designer)
Lanvin (retailer)
Staron (manufacturers)
Materials and Techniques
Silk with chenille and diamante embroidery
Dimensions
Circumference: 67 cm Waist, Circumference: 84 cm Bust, Length: 99 cm Skirt, Diameter: 84 cm Footprint, Weight: 1.5 kg, Length: 124.5 cm centre back
Object history note
This dress was embroidered by the Paris embroidery house of Lesage. Designed by Francois Lesage, it was inspired by the embroidery on 18th century waistcoats, of which he was/is fascinated by.
The dress was worn and given by the Countess of Drogheda. The same model was also made for the actress Vivien Leigh, who wore it with a purple silk satin stole on at least three occasions between 1961 and 1963. Her dress was sold at Sotheby's in 2003.
Descriptive line
Evening dress of embroidered silk zibeline, designed by Antonio Castillo for Lanvin with materials manufactured by Staron, Paris, 1957.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London: 2007), p. 136 and pl.5.17
Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London: 2007), p. 167
Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971
Labels and date
Evening dress
Antonio del Castillo (1908-84) for Lanvin Castillo
Paris
1957
Lesage's embroidery was inspired by that on 18th-century waistcoats. Concentrated on the bodice, it creates a lower, 'trompe l'oeil' neckline while leaving the skirt quite plain.
Silk zibeline by Staron; embroidered by Lesage with chenille-work, sequins, beads and stones
Given by the Countess of Drogheda
V&A: T.284-1974 [22/09/2007]
Materials
Silk zibeline; Chenille; Paste gems
Techniques
Embroidery
Subjects depicted
Stylized flowers
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Formal wear; Clothing
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection
Textiles and Fashion Collection
