This dress was designed by Antonio del Castillo (1908–84) for the couture house of Lanvin in 1957. It was embroidered by the house of Lesage, a famous French embroidery firm. The design was created by François Lesage (b.1929), who inherited the business in 1949, and was inspired by the embroidery on 18th century waistcoats.
Gowns that were to be embroidered were usually simply cut, like this one, to show off their sumptuous surface detail.
Physical description
White silk zibeline evening dress, with shoulder straps, fitted bodice, tulip-shaped skirt with slight gathering. Embroidered in vibrant purple chenille and diamante in a formal floral design.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1957 (made)
Artist/maker
Castillo, Antonio, born 1908 - died 1984 (designer)
Lanvin (retailer)
Staron (material, manufacturers)
Materials and Techniques
Silk with chenille and diamante embroidery
Dimensions
Circumference: 67 cm Waist, Circumference: 84 cm Bust, Length: 99 cm Skirt, Diameter: 84 cm Footprint, Weight: 1.5 kg
Object history note
This dress was embroidered by the Paris embroidery house of Lesage. Designed by Francois Lesage, it was inspired by the embroidery on 18th century waistcoats, of which he was/is fascinated by.
The dress was worn and given by the Countess of Drogheda.
Descriptive line
Evening dress of embroidered zibeline, designed by Antonio Castillo for Lanvin with materials manufactured by Staron, Paris, 1957.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London: 2007), p. 136 and pl.5.17
Lanvin Castillo's cream silk evening gown of 1957 has Lesage chenille-work embroidery in shades of mauve with sequins, beads and stones focused on the bodice, creating a lower, trompe l'oeil neckline and leaving the full skirt quite plain.
Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London: 2007), p. 167
The story of the Countess of Drogheda (d.1989) can never fully be told. The former Joan Carr, a talented pianist, looked like a fragile bird, had been a foundling (with no dated of birth in her passport), and the mistress of Edgar Wallace… When her husband was variously Chairman of the Financial Times and the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, Joan Drogheda was a prominent figure in society. She gave Beaton a 1957 Lanvin, which she described as 'white satin with purple embroidery on the bodice - sounds rather hideous but is in fact pretty'.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Labels and date
Evening dress
Antonio del Castillo (1908-84) for Lanvin Castillo
Paris
1957
Lesage's embroidery was inspired by that on 18th-century waistcoats. Concentrated on the bodice, it creates a lower, 'trompe l'oeil' neckline while leaving the skirt quite plain.
Silk zibeline by Staron; embroidered by Lesage with chenille-work, sequins, beads and stones
Given by the Countess of Drogheda
V&A: T.284-1974 [22/09/2007]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Materials
Chenille; Paste gems; Silk zibeline
Techniques
Embroidery
Subjects depicted
Stylized flowers
Categories
Clothing; Fashion; Evening wear; Formal wear
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
