Gloria Guinness (1912-80) was a wealthy, elegant socialite and writer. She was voted 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962, second only to Jacqueline Kennedy.
Gloria Guinness had a full wardrobe in each of her seven homes, so that she would never have to pack. She saw haute couture as an art form and patronised many couture houses.
She gave dozens of items to the V&A, including pieces by Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972), Chrisitan Dior (1905-57), and Hubert de Givenchy (b.1927). Amongst these famous names were several lesser known labels, such as Jeanne Lafaurie (house dates 1928-58). This is the only dress by Lafaurie in the V&A's collection.
Physical description
Evening dress of yellow printed organdie. It is strapless, with a full skirt and train. Patterned with a darker yellow floral print and re-embroidered with sequins and brilliants. Self-fabric covered belt.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
early 1950s (made)
Artist/maker
Goma, Michel (possibly Goma for Lafaurie, designer)
Jeanne Lafaurie (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Printed silk organdie with sequins and diamante embroidery
Object history note
Designer
Designed by Jeanne Lafaurie (house dates 1928-58).
Michael Goma (later of Patou) was creative director from 1950 to 1958, after which time he bought the house and named it after himself.
André Courrèges (b.1923) trained at the house of Lafaurie.
Donor
Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, better known as Gloria Guinness (1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.
Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune.
She was voted second 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962. Jackie Kennedy was in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
Other dresses donated by her to the V&A show that she favoured yellow for her evening dresses - a colour which would have flattered her complexion.
Descriptive line
Evening dress and pair of belts of printed organdie, possibly designed by Michel Goma for Jeanne Lafaurie, Paris, early 1950s.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.169 and pl.7.12 & 7.13
Mrs Loel Guinness (1913-80) had an extraordinary life. Born in Mexico as Gloria Rubio, her first husband was a Count Furstenberg, to whom she was married at the behest of the German art collector, Freddy Horstmann. Her second husband was an Egyptian by the name of Fakhry, and her third husband, the banker Loel Guinness. In many ways she was unhappy as his wife, as she loved to party and he did not. She gave an enormous number of items from Balenciaga, Dior Courreges, Lanvin Castillo, Givnehy Hellstern and Jeanne Lafaurie, proving that she spresad her commissions amongst many different couturiers. Among the 17 outfits, 12 hats and pairs of shoes that she donated were a 1948 Balenciaga evening gown (T.16-1974) of organdie with flack flowers, a 1949 hand-painted evening gown by Marcelle Chaumont (T.92-1974), and a 1950s evening gown by Jeanne Lafaurie (T.281-1974), the only dress by that designer in the V&A's collection.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Labels and date
Evening dress (robe du soir)
Jeanne Lafaurie (house established 1928-53)
Paris
About 1950
Many smaller couture houses closed in the early 1950s as the number of couture clients decreased and the industry became increasingly dependent on export sales. This organdie dress by Jeanne Lafaurie is the only example of the designer's work in the V&A's collection.
Organdie with sequins
Given by Mrs Gloria Guinness
V&A: T.281-1974 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Materials
Sequins; Diamanté; Organdie
Subjects depicted
Flowers
Categories
Clothing; Fashion; Evening wear; Formal wear
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F