Roger Vivier (1913-98) was a designer of luxury shoes, and is credited with creating the stiletto heel. He designed for several couturiers, including Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, but notably for Christian Dior from 1953-63. He is the only one of Dior's collaborators permitted to have a credit on the final design - 'Christian Dior crée par Roger Vivier' - which is marked inside every shoe.
He often worked in elaborate and expensive materials including silks, pearls, beads, lace, metal threads and jewels.
This shoe was given to the V&A by Roger Vivier himself as a good example of his work.
Physical description
Black silk satin evening pump with a tulle rosette on the toe and high stiletto heel. Long squared-off pointed toe.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1954 (made)
Artist/maker
Roger Vivier, born 1913 - died 1998 (designer)
Christian Dior (designed for)
Materials and Techniques
Silk satin and tulle
Marks and inscriptions
'Christian / Dior / crée par / ROGER VIVIER'
Object history note
Part of the Cecil Beaton collection, no catalogue number but mentioned on the Addenda
Descriptive line
Silk satin evening pump, designed by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, Paris, 1954
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), pl.2.14
Image
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Shoes
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Paris
1950s
Roger Vivier started working for Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, when his designs were considered shocking by major retailers. He went on to collaborate with many couturiers to create shoes for their collections and started collaborating with Dior when the New Look brought emphasis to the ankle and foot. Vivier created a number of innovative heel shapes for Dior, including the comma heel and the stiletto.
1. Shoe, black tulle over satin
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
1954
Given by Roger Vivier
V&A: T.148-1974
2. Shoe, pink satin embroidered with beads and silk and metal thread
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
Given by Roger Vivier
V&A: T.149-974
3. Shoe, satin embroidered with beads and silk and metal thread
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
Given by Roger Vivier
V&A: T.154-1974
4. Shoe, camouflage pattern
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
By courtesy of Roger Vivier
5. Shoe, satin with bows
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
By courtesy of Roger Vivier
6. Shoe, satin with imitation pearls
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
By courtesy of Roger Vivier [22/09/2007]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Production Note
Attribution note: Possibly a one-off made as a designer sample or model shoe
Materials
Silk; Tulle
Techniques
Shoe-making
Categories
Footwear; Fashion; Accessories; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
