Pair of Evening Shoes thumbnail 1
Pair of Evening Shoes thumbnail 2
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Pair of Evening Shoes

1958-1960 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Roger Vivier (1913-98) was a designer of luxury shoes, and is credited with creating the stiletto heel. He designed for several couturiers, including Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, but notably for Christian Dior from 1953-63. He is the only one of Dior's collaborators permitted to have a credit on the final design - 'Christian Dior crée par Roger Vivier' - which is marked inside every shoe.

He worked in elaborate and expensive materials including silks, pearls, beads, lace, metal threads and jewels.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Shoe
  • Shoe
Materials and techniques
Embroidered silk satin with beads, gilt thread, rhinestones and brilliants
Brief description
Pair of embroidered silk satin shoes with high heels, designed by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, Paris, 1958-1960
Physical description
Pair of pink silk satin shoes with high heels. Embroidered with beads, gilt thread, rhinestones and pink brilliants. Pointed toe and high stiletto heels.
Dimensions
  • Height: 140mm
  • Width: 75mm
  • Depth: 250mm (Note: These dimensions were taken by conservation for the exhibition ' Shoes: Pleasure and Pain' (2015-2016))
Style
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
'Christian Dior crée par Roger Vivier Paris' (Stamped inside shoe)
Translation
Christian Dior created by Roger Vivier Paris
Gallery label
(2015-2016)
Label for the exhibition Shoes: Pleasure and Pain

The Fabergé of Shoes

The highly decorated shoes by designer Roger Vivier for Christian Dior in the 1950s and early ’60s represent the ultimate in luxury footwear. Only the wealthiest members of society could afford Dior’s accessories and gowns. The donor and wearer of these shoes, Mrs Gloria Loel Guinness, belonged to one of Europe’s richest families.

Beaded evening shoes
1958–60
Paris
Roger Vivier for Christian Dior
Silk, beads, gilded thread,
rhinestones and brilliants
Worn and given by Mrs Gloria Loel Guinness
V&A: T.149&A-1974
(22/09/2007)
Shoes
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Paris
1950s

Roger Vivier started working for Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, when his designs were considered shocking by major retailers. He went on to collaborate with many couturiers to create shoes for their collections and started collaborating with Dior when the New Look brought emphasis to the ankle and foot. Vivier created a number of innovative heel shapes for Dior, including the comma heel and the stiletto.

1. Shoe, black tulle over satin
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
1954
Given by Roger Vivier
V&A: T.148-1974

2. Shoe, pink satin embroidered with beads and silk and metal thread
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
Given by Roger Vivier [credited in error]
V&A: T.149-974

3. Shoe, satin embroidered with beads and silk and metal thread
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
Given by Roger Vivier
V&A: T.154-1974

4. Shoe, camouflage pattern
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
By courtesy of Roger Vivier

5. Shoe, satin with bows
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
By courtesy of Roger Vivier

6. Shoe, satin with imitation pearls
Roger Vivier (1913-98)
Late 1950s
By courtesy of Roger Vivier
Credit line
Given by Mrs Loel Guinness
Historical context
Designer:
Roger Vivier (1913-98) was the designer of luxury shoe designer. He is credited with creating the Stiletto heel. He designed for several couturiers, including Schiaparelli in the 1930s, but notably designed for Dior from 1953-63. He is the only one of Dior's collaborators permitted to have a credit on the final design: 'Christian Dior crée par Roger Vivier'.

Donor:
Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, better known as Gloria Guinness (1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.

Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune.

She was voted second 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962. Jackie Kennedy was in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
Association
Summary
Roger Vivier (1913-98) was a designer of luxury shoes, and is credited with creating the stiletto heel. He designed for several couturiers, including Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, but notably for Christian Dior from 1953-63. He is the only one of Dior's collaborators permitted to have a credit on the final design - 'Christian Dior crée par Roger Vivier' - which is marked inside every shoe.

He worked in elaborate and expensive materials including silks, pearls, beads, lace, metal threads and jewels.
Bibliographic reference
Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971 no. 320
Collection
Accession number
T.149&A-1974

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Record createdAugust 3, 2007
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