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Evening coat

Evening coat

  • Place of origin:

    London, England (made)

  • Date:

    1905-1910 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Liberty (made)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk and hand embroidery

  • Museum number:

    T.36-2007

  • Gallery location:

    Fashion, room 40, case CA8, shelf FIG2

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This evening coat is a wonderful example of the work produced by Liberty's costume department, which opened in 1884 under the direction of the architect and designer E. W. Godwin. The department became known for its brand of 'Aesthetic' dress, inspired by costumes of the past, and made in beautiful silks, some made in India, dyed in vibrant but natural colours.

The remarkable 'rainbow' lining is a type of fabric known as a striƩ or dip-dyed silk. A similarly-constructed coat appears in a Liberty catalogue of 1907 priced at 7 guineas. A seamstress at the time would struggle to earn 2 guineas a week, a comparison which indicates the wealthy, upper middle-class character of the typical Liberty customer.

Physical description

Full length evening or opera coat of bronze-coloured silk, with 'rainbow' patterned silk lining, and hand embroidery at neckline and sleeves. Lining silk is Liberty 'Aurora' silk.

Place of Origin

London, England (made)

Date

1905-1910 (made)

Artist/maker

Liberty (made)

Materials and Techniques

Silk and hand embroidery

Dimensions

Length: 138.5 cm centre back, neck to hemline

Production Note

This coat is not labelled but the 'rainbow' silk lining has been identified by the Liberty archivist as 'Aurora' silk, which was woven in Macclesfield (probably) and made exclusively for Liberty, selling at 8/6 a yard. The embroidery on the coat is very typical of the 'aesthetic' style and the pomegranate motif can be found in contemporary Liberty prints. There is very little doubt that the coat was made in the Liberty work-rooms.

Materials

Silk

Techniques

Sewing; Embroidery

Subjects depicted

Pomegranates

Categories

Textiles; Clothing; Fashion

Collection code

T&F

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Qr_O138210
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