Physical description
A court mantua composed of gown, petticoat and stomacher. Made of silk which bears silver embroidery in a Tree of Life design.
The back of the bodice is pleated and stitched, double pleats running over the shoulders to form robings which merge with the skirt. These are draped into basques with inner, silver cords looped over wound silver buttons attached to the back. The skirt is folded, sides to centre; the end, embroidered in a lighter style, drapes up and is attached to the low back. The sleeves are elbow length and narrow, turn-back cuffs, seamed in the bend of the arm, so as to have a slight winged effect. The bodice is lined with white silk. The petticoat is embroidered all over its seven breadths and is shaped to accommodate narrow, side hoops, six feet across at their widest point. Under its silver embroidery there are traces of coloured silk, suggesting a change in design part way through making.
Inscribed beneath the embroidery on the under side of the train is 'Recd of Mdme Lecomte by me Magd. Giles'.
[Mantua] Style: A mantua with an open front and revers, elbow length sleeve ending in a pleated wing cuff. The pleated back extends into a long train with extended skirts at the side for looping up.
Construction: The back and train are 1 length of silk, pleated to shape. The skirts and train are embroidered on the reverse of fabric just below the waist so that the right side will show correctly when the mantua skirt is looped and draped.
Design: Embroidered in Tree of Life design with scrolling stems and leaves. The embroidery design has been adapted to occupy the smaller spaces of sleeves, cuff and revers.
Alterations: Extra fabric has been added either side of train to maintain the silk width. Alterations have been made, probably early 20th century in the bodice to adapt to fancy dress
[Petticoat] Style: an ankle length, back fastening petticoat of a wide, flat shape to be worn over square hoops
Construction: Seven panels of silk sewn selvedge to selvedge and then embroidered. Back seam was done after embroidery. Shaped opening at the waist, with a back slit and tie tapes fastening in the back. Top side corners are pleated with inverted diagonal folds.
Design: Embroidery is executed in a symmetrical 'Tree of Life' design with scrolling stems and large leaves originating from a dense swag and lattice border at hem, pattern opening up as it reaches the top. Some embroidery done originally in coloured silks, then covered over with silver thread.
Alterations: top seam has been let down and resewn several times; three lines of stitching visible. Restructured for fancy dress in 1920s. Insertions by Tex Cons and repleating of corners for mounting purposes. Cotton lining added by Tex Cons.
Place of Origin
England, Great Britain (made)
Date
1740-1745 (made)
1920s (altered)
Artist/maker
Leconte (decorator)
Giles, Magdalene (possibly, maker)
Materials and Techniques
Ribbed silk with silver thread embroidery, couched and worked in satin stitch
Marks and inscriptions
'Recd of Mdme Lecomte by me Magd. Giles'.
[Mantua] Rec'd of Mdme Leconte by me Magd. Giles
Dimensions
[Mantua] Length: 88.5 in overall shoulder to end of train, Circumference: 31 in bust, Circumference: 29 in waist, Width: 68 in overall
[Petticoat] Length: 41.75 in overall, Circumference: 149 in at hem, Width: 74.5 in at hem
Object history note
Purchased by Annie, Lady Cowdray from Reville in the 1920s for a fancy dress ball. No prior record of the ensemble.
Historical significance: This is the V&A's finest example of 18th century women's court dress and unique in its markings by embroiderer and dressmaker. The dense heavy pattern of the embroidery indicates early 1740s and possibly the influence of French rococo design.
Historical context note
This represents court dress, the most formal of English 18th century dress. It would have been worn by a woman of aristocratic birth for attendance at court.
Descriptive line
Court Mantua dress, England, 1740-1745.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Rothstein, Natalie, ed., Four Hundred Years of Fashion, London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 1982, reprinted 1992, no. 6, pp.21,122
Historical Fashion in Detail: the 17th and 18th Centuries
Dore, Judith, "The Conservation of Two Eighteenth Century English Court Mantuas", Studies in Conservation, volume 23, 1978, pp.1-14
Exhibition History
Dress Court, Gallery 40 (01/01/1982-31/12/2000)
Materials
Silk; Silver thread; Silk taffeta
Techniques
Hand sewing; Hand embroidery
Categories
Clothing; Ceremonial dress
Production Type
Unique
Collection code
T&F
