Physical description
A woman's court mantua composed of mantua and petticoat of dark pink ribbed silk, embroidered to shape with silver thread, strip, frisé, purl and spangles in a large Tree-of-Life design. The mantua is open at the front with double-pleated robings to the waist and elbow-length sleeves with deep, pleated cuffs. The back is made of one width of the silk, pleated and shaped to form the back of the bodice and extending into the train. On either side of it, below the waist, is a tapering rectangle made of 3 pieces of silk, to form the gathering of the mantua at the back. The upper piece also forms the bodice fronts, one pleat of the robings extending into one of the pleats at the back. The bodice is lined with linen. On the side seams below the waist on the inside are two loops of silver cord, with corresponding silver buttons on the right side, for draping the mantua. The mantua is embroidered to shape, the bodice, sleeves and cuffs, worked and scaled to accommodate their pleats and shaping. The train and its side panels are worked on the wrong side (relative to the bodice), but to show correctly when the mantua is properly arranged.
The petticoat is made of 7 widths of silk, embroidered over 6 seams, with the final seam after embroidery at the right back. There is an opening in the middle of the centre back panel. The petticoat is lined with red silk taffeta and the hem bound with a woven silver lace (braid). Its original shape was probably for a wide, square hoop. It is embroidered in a symmetrical Tree-of-Life design with scrolling stems and large leaves originating from a dense swag and lattice border at hem, pattern opening up as it reaches the top. Some embroidery done originally in coloured silks, then covered over with silver thread.
The mantua was altered for fancy dress in the 1920s. The robings were reconfigured and a cut dart (now removed) added to the waist on each side of the front. The corners of the train end were narrowed. The waist binding was removed from the petticoat, the pleats undone to lengthen it and reconfigured for a round shape.
Conservation was carried out after acquistion for display 1982-2001. The waist of the mantua was re-inforced, and matching silk added to missing parts of train. Matchingsilk added to petticoat at waist, and waist reconfigured for a square hoop.
Place of Origin
England (textile, embroidered)
England (ensemble, sewing)
Date
1740-1745 (embroidery)
1740 - 1745 (sewing)
1920s (altered)
Artist/maker
Leconte (Madame) (embroiderer)
Giles, Magdalene (maker)
Materials and Techniques
Silk, linen, silk thread, linen thread, 14 types of silver thread, silver strip, silver frisé, silver spangles; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn
Marks and inscriptions
Recd of Mdme Leconte by me Magd. Giles
handwritten in ink on reverse of the mantua train at hem
Dimensions
Width: 192 cm Hem at bottom of petticoat
Object history note
Purchased by Annie, Lady Cowdray from Reville in the 1920s for a fancy dress ball. No prior record of the ensemble.
Historical significance: This is the V&A's finest example of 18th century women's court dress and unique in its markings by embroiderer and dressmaker. The dense heavy pattern of the embroidery indicates early 1740s and possibly the influence of French rococo design.
Historical context note
This represents court dress, the most formal of English 18th century dress. It would have been worn by a woman of aristocratic birth for attendance at court.
Descriptive line
A woman's court mantua with petticoat, 1740-45, English; dark pink ribbed silk embroidered with silver, English 1740-45; altered 1920s
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Rothstein, Natalie, ed., Four Hundred Years of Fashion, London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 1982, reprinted 1992, no. 6, pp.21,122
Historical Fashion in Detail: the 17th and 18th Centuries
Dore, Judith, "The Conservation of Two Eighteenth Century English Court Mantuas", Studies in Conservation, volume 23, 1978, pp.1-14
Materials
Silk (textile); Linen (material); Silk thread; Linen thread; Silver thread; Spangles
Techniques
Hand sewing; Hand embroidery; Hand weaving
Categories
Clothing; Europeana Fashion Project; Formal wear; Women's clothes; Fashion
Production Type
Unique
Collection
Textiles and Fashion Collection