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Ring brooch

Ring brooch

  • Place of origin:

    Lund (made)
    Färs (worn)

  • Date:

    ca. 1830 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Holmberg, Christina Dorothea (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silver and filigree

  • Museum number:

    518-1886

  • Gallery location:

    Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery, case 71, shelf B, box 11

Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

Circular and heart-shaped ring brooches are medieval in origin and found throughout northern Europe. They differ from modern brooches in the way they fasten. The wearer pulls the cloth of the garment through the central hole, and then spears it with the pin. The greater the strain on the pin, the more secure the fastening.

This ring brooch is a plain circle decorated with filigree coil rings, each topped with a small lozenge alternating with a granule. This kind of decoration is typical of Skåne work in the first half of the 19th century, as is the little ring holding the pin. The brooch was made to hold a woman’s shirt closed at the collar. It is marked with the maker’s mark EH. Erik Holmberg was a silversmith who specialised in traditional jewellery, who worked in Lund from 1774-1819. After his death, his widow continued his business, using his maker’s mark, for another twenty years. From the style of the brooch, it is more likely to date from her time than from his.

Physical description

Circular ring brooch decorated with a circle of coil rings topped with alternating granules and lozenges. Loose pin attached to a loop on the inside rim.

Place of Origin

Lund (made)
Färs (worn)

Date

ca. 1830 (made)

Artist/maker

Holmberg, Christina Dorothea (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Silver and filigree

Marks and inscriptions

'EH'
Mark of Erik Holmberg of Lund
Stamped twice on the back, on opposite sides. This mark was continued in use by his widow after his death. From the style of the brooch, it seems more likely to have been made after 1819, when Erik Holmberg died.

Dimensions

Diameter: 3.8 cm, Depth: 0.4 cm

Descriptive line

Silver ring brooch (ringsölja) decorated with a circle of filigree coil rings, Skåne (Sweden), 19th century.

Materials

Silver

Techniques

Filigree

Categories

Jewellery; Metalwork

Collection

Metalwork Collection

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