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Shirt stud

  • Place of origin:

    Ystad (made)
    Ingelstad (worn)

  • Date:

    ca. 1850 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Lärka, Håkan, born 1815 (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silver and filigree, set with pastes

  • Museum number:

    500-1886

  • Gallery location:

    Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery, case 71, shelf B, box 5

Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

Swedish men wore large stud buttons to keep the necks of their shirts snugly closed, and small buttons on their waistcoats. Women did not start wearing silver dress buttons until the 19th century. This stud button has a rounded front, decorated with filigree and coloured pastes. Swedish traditional jewellers made lavish use of coloured glass. It is typical of Skåne work from the 19th century.

It is marked with the griffin mark of Ystad, and the maker's mark HL. Håkan Lärka was a silversmith who specialised in traditional jewellery, who worked in Ystad from 1844 to 1873.

Physical description

Shirt stud, consisting of a plain circular back connected to a decorative rounded front of the same size by a short rigid stalk. The front is set with a central red paste, surrounded by five coils of filigree separated by five smaller red and green pastes.

Place of Origin

Ystad (made)
Ingelstad (worn)

Date

ca. 1850 (made)

Artist/maker

Lärka, Håkan, born 1815 (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Silver and filigree, set with pastes

Marks and inscriptions

'HL'
Mark of Håkan Lärka of Ystad stamped twice on the back, in a square formation with the town marks.

griffin in rectangular frame
Town mark of Ystad stamped twice on the back, in a square formation with the maker's marks.

Dimensions

Diameter: 3.1 cm, Depth: 2.6 cm

Historical context note

Worn by men.

Descriptive line

Silver shirt stud (stolpknap) decorated with filigree and set with coloured pastes, Skåne (Sweden), 19th century.

Materials

Silver; Paste (glass)

Techniques

Filigree

Categories

Jewellery; Metalwork; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Metalwork Collection

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