Necklace thumbnail 1
Necklace thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Necklace

1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

The most popular necklace was a choker, made of several chains fastened at the front with a large decorative snap clasp. These are often decorated with filigree and coloured pastes. Swedish traditional jewellers made lavish use of coloured glass. Red was the most popular colour, as everywhere in Europe. These traditional necklaces often have a small pendent heart at the front.

The clasp on this necklace has a full set of Swedish silver marks. It is marked with the Swedish 'cat's paw' standard mark, the three towers mark of Lund, the date letter U4, for 1850, and the maker's mark GD. Gabriel Dahlberg was a silversmith who specialised in traditional jewellery, who worked in Lund from 1845 to 1893.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver and filigree, set with pastes
Brief description
Silver neck chain (halslås) with decorative filigree clasp set with red pastes, Skåne (Sweden), 1850.
Physical description
Choker consisting of two (originally three) panzer chains, with a large rectangular snap clasp at the front. The clasp is decorated with filigree tracery and set with 13 faceted red pastes, the central pear-shaped one surrounded by eight smaller pastes, with a larger circular paste in each corner. A pendent heart-shaped red paste is hung from the lower edge.
Dimensions
  • Length: 39.5cm
  • Width: 6.4cm
  • Depth: 1.0cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'GD' (On the centre of the back, in a cross formation with the other marks.)
    Translation
    Mark of Gabriel Dahlberg of Lund
  • 3 towers. (On the centre of the back, in a cross formation with the other marks.)
    Translation
    Town mark for Lund.
  • 'U4' (On the centre of the back, in a cross formation with the other marks.)
    Translation
    Date mark for 1850.
  • 3 crowns (On the centre of the back, in a cross formation with the other marks.)
    Translation
    Mark for 830 standard silver, Sweden.
  • cornucopia (Scratched on back.)
Subjects depicted
Summary
Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

The most popular necklace was a choker, made of several chains fastened at the front with a large decorative snap clasp. These are often decorated with filigree and coloured pastes. Swedish traditional jewellers made lavish use of coloured glass. Red was the most popular colour, as everywhere in Europe. These traditional necklaces often have a small pendent heart at the front.

The clasp on this necklace has a full set of Swedish silver marks. It is marked with the Swedish 'cat's paw' standard mark, the three towers mark of Lund, the date letter U4, for 1850, and the maker's mark GD. Gabriel Dahlberg was a silversmith who specialised in traditional jewellery, who worked in Lund from 1845 to 1893.
Collection
Accession number
381-1886

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Record createdJuly 27, 2007
Record URL
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