Jacket Clasp thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Jacket Clasp

ca. 1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

A well-dressed woman from Skåne wore multiple pairs of silver clasps along the front edges of her outer clothes. Some of these were functional, and hooked into each other. Others were purely ornamental.

Heart-shaped clasps like these were originally worn as cloak clasps, but by the 19th century they had moved to the outer jacket, and were often purely decorative. The earliest kind was made of sheet silver with engraved decoration. These continued in use after filigree became popular. This pair is marked with the maker's mark JW. Jonas Wahlberg was a prolific maker of traditional jewellery, who worked in Ystad from 1834 to 1859.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Engraved silver set with pastes
Brief description
Silver jacket clasp set with coloured pastes, Skåne (Sweden), 19th century.
Physical description
Silver clasp, made from two trefoil-shaped parts decorated with engraved leaves, and each set with a central red pear-shaped faceted paste, with two smaller pink, and one green, pastes around it.
Dimensions
  • Width: 8.5cm
  • Height: 3.5cm
  • Depth: 0.6cm
Marks and inscriptions
'JW' (Mark of Jonas Wahlberg of Ystad, on the back of one part at the point. There is an illegible mark in the corresponding place on the other part, which may be the maker's mark again, or the griffin mark of Ystad.)
Summary
Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

A well-dressed woman from Skåne wore multiple pairs of silver clasps along the front edges of her outer clothes. Some of these were functional, and hooked into each other. Others were purely ornamental.

Heart-shaped clasps like these were originally worn as cloak clasps, but by the 19th century they had moved to the outer jacket, and were often purely decorative. The earliest kind was made of sheet silver with engraved decoration. These continued in use after filigree became popular. This pair is marked with the maker's mark JW. Jonas Wahlberg was a prolific maker of traditional jewellery, who worked in Ystad from 1834 to 1859.
Collection
Accession number
459-1886

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Record createdJuly 27, 2007
Record URL
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