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Supportasse

1595-1615 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

During the early 17th century, formal neckwear such as ruffs and starched collars needed support. Flat collars and the wide circles of gathered linen that made up ruffs had to be held up at the back of the neck in order to frame the face properly. Such supports were called by a range of different names: ‘supportasse’ (a French term), underpropper, pickadil or rebato (an Italian name). A variety of materials were used to make such supports; this example is made of linen reinforced with whalebone, card and wire. A close analysis of this supporter determined that it was once stuffed with straw to create a slightly curved surface. This would have made a linen band worn on top fall gracefully from the neck of the wearer. The supporter is open in front, probably intended for a woman’s low-necked gown or bodice.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Linen, silk, whalebone, card, wire, and linen thread, hand-sewn
Brief description
Woman's supporter, 1595-1615, English; blue linen with whalebone and wire
Physical description
An open supporter made in two layers. Top layer is two pieces of blue linen stitched and reinforced with baleen radiating from neck to outer edge, which is bound with pale yellow silk grosgrain ribbon. Bottom layer of blue linen is reinforced with card and wire along the outer edge. Both layers attached and bound at neck with a strip of blue linen, with extends at front edges to form ties.
Dimensions
  • Width: 41.0cm
  • Depth: 26.0cm
  • Height: 0.4cm
Production typeUnique
Object history
Purchased as part of a collection of mainly early 17th century men's garments, from H Fetherstonhaugh Frampton, Esq. for £150 in 1910. According to the registered files, he said they came from a farmhouse at Whaddon Dorsetshire and had been given to his grandmother.
Historical context
One of a variety of different types of support for starched ruffs and bands in the late sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries. These were tied or secured to gowns at the neck and the linen neckwear sat on top.
Summary
During the early 17th century, formal neckwear such as ruffs and starched collars needed support. Flat collars and the wide circles of gathered linen that made up ruffs had to be held up at the back of the neck in order to frame the face properly. Such supports were called by a range of different names: ‘supportasse’ (a French term), underpropper, pickadil or rebato (an Italian name). A variety of materials were used to make such supports; this example is made of linen reinforced with whalebone, card and wire. A close analysis of this supporter determined that it was once stuffed with straw to create a slightly curved surface. This would have made a linen band worn on top fall gracefully from the neck of the wearer. The supporter is open in front, probably intended for a woman’s low-necked gown or bodice.
Bibliographic reference
Costigliolo, Luca, 'Linen Supporter', in North, Susan and Jenny Tiramani, eds, Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns, vol.2, London: V&A Publishing, 2012, pp.100-107
Collection
Accession number
T.62-1910

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Record createdJuly 24, 2007
Record URL
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