Bodice Fastener thumbnail 1
Bodice Fastener thumbnail 2
+3
images
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

This object consists of 10 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Bodice Fastener

ca. 1830-1879 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

Bodice fasteners originated in the Middle Ages, as a way of fastening the front opening of the bodice. Women made holes on either side of the bodice, and then laced them together with a cord running through the holes, in the same way that people still lace their shoes. Because of their prominent position on the front of the costume, the holes were often decorated with embroidery, or replaced with silver eyelets or bodice fasteners, like these.

These bodice fasteners are typical of those made in Ystad and Kristianstad. The rosette in the centre deliberately lacks one petal, to leave room for the chain which links them together, but by the 19th century they were purely decorative, not functional. These fasteners are marked with the griffin mark of Ystad, and the maker's mark PW. They were made by Peter Magnus Wallengren, who specialised in making traditional jewellery of all kinds in Ystad from 1830 to 1879.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 10 parts.

  • Bodice Fasteners
  • Bodice Fasteners
  • Bodice Fasteners
  • Bodice Fasteners
  • Bodice Fasteners
  • Bodice Fasteners
  • Bodice Fasteners
  • Bodice Fasteners
  • Bodice Fasteners
  • Bodice Fasteners
Materials and techniques
Stamped silver, partly gilded, decorated with filigree and red pastes
Brief description
Set of ten silver bodice fasteners (maljor) set with a central red paste, Skåne (Sweden), 1830-1879.
Physical description
A set of nine (originally ten) circular silver bodice fasteners. Each is made from a ring of twisted wire, with a domed rosette of sheet silver stamped with a pattern of domes, with one lobe omitted, attached so that it almost covers the inside space. The largest domes are gilded, and there is a facetted red paste rivetted to the centre, surrounded by a circle of filigree coil rings.
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'P.W.' (On the front of the dome just below the central motif.)
    Translation
    Mark of Peter Magnus Wallengren of Ystad
  • Griffin in shield-shaped frame. (On the front of the dome just below the central motif.)
    Translation
    Town mark of Ystad.
Summary
Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

Bodice fasteners originated in the Middle Ages, as a way of fastening the front opening of the bodice. Women made holes on either side of the bodice, and then laced them together with a cord running through the holes, in the same way that people still lace their shoes. Because of their prominent position on the front of the costume, the holes were often decorated with embroidery, or replaced with silver eyelets or bodice fasteners, like these.

These bodice fasteners are typical of those made in Ystad and Kristianstad. The rosette in the centre deliberately lacks one petal, to leave room for the chain which links them together, but by the 19th century they were purely decorative, not functional. These fasteners are marked with the griffin mark of Ystad, and the maker's mark PW. They were made by Peter Magnus Wallengren, who specialised in making traditional jewellery of all kinds in Ystad from 1830 to 1879.
Collection
Accession number
535 to I-1886

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Record createdJuly 20, 2007
Record URL
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