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Bodice fasteners
  • Bodice fasteners
    Wallengren, Peter Magnus, born 1802 - died 1884
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Bodice fasteners

  • Place of origin:

    Ystad (made)
    Herrestad (worn)

  • Date:

    ca. 1830-1879 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Wallengren, Peter Magnus, born 1802 - died 1884 (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Stamped silver, partly gilded, decorated with filigree and red pastes

  • Museum number:

    535 to I-1886

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

Bodice fasteners originated in the Middle Ages, as a way of fastening the front opening of the bodice. Women made holes on either side of the bodice, and then laced them together with a cord running through the holes, in the same way that people still lace their shoes. Because of their prominent position on the front of the costume, the holes were often decorated with embroidery, or replaced with silver eyelets or bodice fasteners, like these.

These bodice fasteners are typical of those made in Ystad and Kristianstad. The rosette in the centre deliberately lacks one petal, to leave room for the chain which links them together, but by the 19th century they were purely decorative, not functional. These fasteners are marked with the griffin mark of Ystad, and the maker's mark PW. They were made by Peter Magnus Wallengren, who specialised in making traditional jewellery of all kinds in Ystad from 1830 to 1879.

Physical description

A set of nine (originally ten) circular silver bodice fasteners. Each is made from a ring of twisted wire, with a domed rosette of sheet silver stamped with a pattern of domes, with one lobe omitted, attached so that it almost covers the inside space. The largest domes are gilded, and there is a facetted red paste rivetted to the centre, surrounded by a circle of filigree coil rings.

Place of Origin

Ystad (made)
Herrestad (worn)

Date

ca. 1830-1879 (made)

Artist/maker

Wallengren, Peter Magnus, born 1802 - died 1884 (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Stamped silver, partly gilded, decorated with filigree and red pastes

Marks and inscriptions

'P.W.'
Mark of Peter Magnus Wallengren of Ystad
On the front of the dome just below the central motif.

Griffin in shield-shaped frame.
Town mark of Ystad.
On the front of the dome just below the central motif.

Descriptive line

Set of ten silver bodice fasteners (maljor) set with a central red paste, Skåne (Sweden), 1830-1879.

Materials

Silver; Paste (glass); Silver-gilt

Techniques

Filigree; Gilding; Stamping (marking)

Categories

Jewellery; Metalwork; Traditional jewellery (Europe)

Collection

Metalwork Collection

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